Scarpa North America Blog

Finding the Perfect Shoes for all of Your Adventures

Jun. 19th 2013
By SCARPA

Arltey Goodhart has been an invaluable member of the SCARPA team for four years in the warranty department and is currently studying pathology and microbiology. He enjoys most styles of climbing – everything from from big wall to bouldering but big climbs that require full commitment and persistence are what he finds most rewarding.

Ah, springtime. Everything is fresh, new and the climbing temps are nothing short of perfect. As a student, spring grants me time to finally venture to the climbing spots I’ve had my eye on for the past semester. For me, springtime equals an agenda of multi-sport days that include climbing, running and biking.

One of the benefits of working at SCARPA is testing the different lines of shoes, allowing me to see which shoe – climb, mountain, trail and lifestyle ­­– fits each discipline best. I prefer an all-day trad shoe, another shoe for technical and steep projects, and a lightweight running/scramble shoe that I can bike in. Sure, this may look like a shoe fetish but it’s not – it’s a preference for function and performance. So, after testing several shoes, I’ve narrowed my list of go-to kicks.

Vapor

All Day Trad:

Early spring means trips to the desert. This requires a strong yet comfortable crack shoe that I use on longer routes in Zion or shorter climbs in the Moab and Indian Creek areas. My first choice: the Vapor, a tried and true shoe. It’s fantastic for crack climbing and technical face sections. The Vapor gives me enough support to stick to thin edges and then jam my foot right back into a crack.

Instinct VS

When changing the scenery and hitting Yosemite granite, I use the new Instinct VS. I’m able to smear on slick granite, stick to thin edges, and crank in cracks. I tend to wear my Instinct VS a bit on the large side for extra comfort and performance on long valley days and haven’t experienced any hot spots. I attribute this to the bi-tension connecting the heel cup to the toe box. They work much more independently of each other than most shoes. This is a huge benefit for multiple climbing styles.

BoosticBoostic

Projects:

For ultra thin, technical projects, the Boostic is my Holy Grail. The V-tension last helps pull your foot into a snug, performance fit, providing precision and support without sacrificing sensitivity.

Like I said earlier, I like to use the new Instinct VS for trad routes but also bring it along on project climbs. Its snug but comfortable toe box is independent of the heel, which enables me to put pressure in a controlled and energy efficient way on small and insecure holds.

Spark

Multi Sport:

For a day of biking, running, and climbing I like to use a super light trail running shoe that performs well while mountain or road biking. The Spark provides all of this, weighing in at only 260g per shoe (size 42). They’re a lightweight replacement for what would normally be a pair of running- or bike-specific shoes. The tread bites down on a platform as well as any bike specific shoe I’ve used providing control on the trail as well.

With so many different sports, disciplines, and foot shapes it all boils down to finding the shoe and fit that give you the most satisfying experience. These shoes are the models that work best for me, but it can be different for every person which is why I encourage you to find the perfect shoe that allows you to get out there, go after it, and it give everything you’ve got!

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Breaking the Speed Limit with the Dorais Brothers

Jun. 13th 2013
By SCARPA

The terms “physically fit” and “expert ski mountaineers” don’t even begin to describe the Dorais brothers – some would say they’re possibly beyond human. Climbing and skiing higher, faster and harder than many mountaineers, Andy and Jason are consistently raising the bar. Most recently, the duo has been all over newsfeeds and media outlets for climbing and skiing down Mt. Rainier in under four hours. But, that’s not the only monumental adventure the brothers embarked on this season. We caught up with these SCARPA athletes to hear about their ascent of Rainier and skiing the Grand Teton’s Otter Body (both on SCARPA Aliens and Ski Trab skis), and what it’s like to set a speed record on racing gear.

Jason and Andy skinning the upper snowfield of the Otter Body.

This year, we were blessed to spend many amazing days skiing in the backcountry but two stand out most vividly in our minds. In late April, with our friend Tom, we were able to summit the Grand Teton and then descend the Otter Body route. It was a glorious, strange, terrifying, remarkable, tiring and joyous day. Then just last week, we donned our race gear, braced ourselves, and spent just under four hours climbing and skiing Mount Rainier from Paradise via the Disappointment Cleaver route. As of now, this is a new all comers record for Rainier and we’re thrilled to have lowered the standard no matter how transient the “record” may be.

Andy and Tom Goth at Teepee Col.

Surviving the Otter Body:

On the Grand, we took off with a true alpine start and climbed in the brilliant moonlight. The weather was perfect and once we felt the irresistible pull of the Otter Body, we committed. Serious, steep and exposed, the game was now to stay alive and get down safely. We were concerned about the icy conditions but the warming temperatures alarmed us even more, so down we went.

Andy skinning to the summit.

The upper East Face skied well but as we approached the ever-steepening choke above the Otter Body Snowfield, the snow became firmer and eventually forced us out of our skis. We rappelled through the rocky choke and then enjoyed tentative turns on the icy Otter Body. As we approached the tail and entered the shade, the pitch became quite steep and we began to look for the established rap stations. After adding a pin to a shady anchor we performed two double rope rappels to freedom. On the Teepee, we screamed in relief and joy, thrilled to have visited such a wild place.

Breaking the Speed Limit on Mt. Rainier:

On Rainier, the goal was speed. We were motivated by a couple of Canadians who had just lowered the speed record to four hours and 19 minutes. We had their splits, knew the route (after a debacle the year before in which we got lost just minutes from Paradise), and just needed a weather window. In the end, we balanced warming conditions with lingering avy danger and settled on June 5th.  At 6 am, under clear but warm skies, we took off after an unceremonious, “three, two, one, GO!”

Andy skinning along.

From the “gun” we were fighting sloppy conditions and my heart rate monitor told me I was pushing too hard. Ignoring it, I focused on relaxing and staying with Jason. Halfway up the snowfield, conditions improved and the pace quickened. Moving through Camp Muir in an hour and 22 minutes, we were greeted by a dozen fellow climbers cheering us on. Their positivity energized us as we moved toward the Cleaver.

Around the corner, the Ingraham Glacier was beautifully broken up and I could see a couple parties high above the Cleaver. Everything was coming together perfectly.

Except, it was becoming harder to move fast in the thinning air. Jason screamed, “This is supposed to hurt!” and on we climbed.

Waiting for the weather to clear.

Above the Cleaver, we were forced out of our skis to cross a ladder bridging a large crevasse.  In my mind, I thought I would just walk right across but Jason dropped to his knees and began to crawl. While waiting for my turn, crawling began to seem like a much better idea and to my knees I went. Laughing, Jason tried to take a picture but missed it. Here we were trying to go faster than anyone before on this mountain and we were literally crawling. Ironic, I know.

The upper mountain was a blur, both mentally and visually as there was a small cloud lingering over the summit. As we topped out, my watch read three hours and 15 minutes. Sub four hours would be hard, especially as the upper mountain was in less than ideal condition for fast skiing.

Andy traversing to the Cleaver.

At the Cleaver, we found amazing corn and started to ski. We slashed turns to the side of multiple parties who openly cheered us on. We were psyched by their support and glad to be able to get by quickly without interfering with their adventures.

Arcing big turns on the upper Muir, we joyfully found perfect corn and mostly smooth snow. This effortless skiing didn’t last and as we descended along the lower reaches of the snowfield, sticky isothermic glop made for more challenging conditions.

Just above Paradise we reunited after a short separation on the descent. We pointed ‘em for home and started screaming out of joy, relief and the satisfaction of giving our best effort on that day.

Now, back in Salt Lake, we are psyched that we were lucky enough to be able to enjoy Rainier in the style we hoped for and in a time that represented a solid effort for the given conditions. While we believe our time of 3:57:55 to be the fastest round trip known to date, it would be foolish to think it will hold up. Faster people will come along but we’re just glad to play a part in the progression of the speed game on this classic North American mountain.

Victory!

The Game:

Although each of these days presented different challenges, some things were the same. We had great weather, a long-standing partnership (we started out by sharing a bedroom in the 80s), and incredible scenery. We also had great gear with which we trust our lives and which was instrumental in finding success.

Skiing big mountains on ski mountaineering race gear is not for everyone. The gear can be squirrely and there’s always an adjustment period. But once you gain a certain proficiency the rewards are immense. It’s easier to climb technical terrain with lighter boots that have a short, rockered sole. When swinging an ice tool, the short light skis are barely noticeable and their light weight is appreciated. We can ski more and faster which means we’re able to travel more efficiently in the mountains. Some could argue that the gift of speed increases the margin of safety while others argue the opposite.

Simply put: ski mountaineering on light gear is enlightening. It’s freedom.

For those starting out and interested in speeding up, we recommend finding a mentor, think about your personal goals, and individualize your gear. For us, we use Ski Trab skis, the Maestro for general mountaineering (171 cm and 950 gms), and the Race Aero (164 cm and 720 gms) for speed.

The SCARPA Alien is our go to boot for most endeavors. We put Ski Trab race bindings on all of our skis and use mohair skins since the glide outweighs the small decrease in climbing ability. Other adjuncts are ski crampons, lightweight packs, 6 mm cord for raps, breathable clothes, etc.

Put it all together and the difference is incredible.  Enjoy the freedom!

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF ANDY AND JASON DORAIS

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The New River Rendezvous Recap

Jun. 11th 2013
By SCARPA

Touted as one the best, if not the best, fund-raising climbing festivals in the Southeast is the New River Rendezvous (aka The ‘Vous) and this year attendees, volunteers, and SCARPA athletes all agree – it’s one for the books.

Bouldering at The ‘Vous

Put on by the New River Alliance of Climbers and a handful of volunteers from the surrounding New River Gorge area, the event attracted about 800 attendees and raised $20,000 to be used for park restoration, facility improvements and trail work.

In addition to the funds raised and huge support from local climbers, the weekend was packed with climbing and bouldering competitions, gear demos, SCARPA climbing clinics, and some serious arm wrestling and sumo-crash-pad wrestling competitions.

Ten-time ‘Vous attendees.

Other highlights of The ‘Vous 10th include great brews shared over SCARPA athlete Sam Elias’ slideshow, “Life on the Road,” and a short video by Nic Spruill about the bouldering area known as “The Dries” where the NRAC is working to make the area more accessible to bouldering enthusiasts with marked trails and designated parking lots.

Matt Wilder makes his way up “That’s What She Said” (5.12d) taking first place.

Aside from the incredible climbing, tremendous support from sponsors and the forest service, The ‘Vous has helped keep the New River on people’s radar,” said Big-Cheese Rendezvous Organizer Maura Kistler. “All of the sponsors went above and beyond to increase participation and psyche.”

New this summer was the American Alpine Club Campground located just a hop away from the main ‘Vous event area. “It’s a great addition to the event and gave visitors a lot more space to camp and enjoy the grounds,”says Kistler.

The ‘Vous’ No-Waste Initiative was a major success this year as a solar-powered trailer was hauled in to power a majority of vendor booths and provide LED lighting. Kistler says everyone was very respectful and fully on board with the initiative.

While The Vous may be over, the New River still boasts some of the Southeast’s best climbing so don’t hesitate to get out there and create your own adventure. For more info on the New River Gorge visit http://www.nps.gov/neri/planyourvisit/climbing.htm.

All photos courtesy dpmclimbing.com

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The Relationship of Force: SCARPA’s versatile Force X rock shoe

Jun. 6th 2013
By SCARPA

Forces only exist as a result of an interaction. Whenever there’s an interaction between two objects—a climber and a sheer rock face, for instance—there’s a force upon each of the objects. Contact forces are the types of forces that result when the two interacting objects are perceived to be physically contacting each other. So, it’s simple science that we’d make a versatile, can-do shoe that fully embraces the laws of physics; thus, the Force X.

SCARPA’s Force X is happy at any crag, gym, or boulder park, but it really shines on long trad routes. Constructed with suede leather that molds to the foot, it features a liner in the back half of the heel pocket, along with a padded mesh tongue for comfort. It’ll perform on edges, and remain sensitive on slabs. There’s a reason for that. And the reason is called Vibram® XS Edge rubber. Developed to deliver maximum grip, XS edge doesn’t stretch in hot temps and maintains its resistance to plastic distortion, holding a consistent edge in hot and cold environments.

Active Randing has been around for a while. It strives to get maximum sensitivity for your feet while still being able to hold an edge, and that “activity” comes from tension. The Force X uses SCARPA’s V-tension randing, a process that employs the Active Randing™ principles of high-end power transfer, but uses more forgiving tension. When you’re at the wall, think maximum performance with less pressure and compression in the toe area. Translation: long, comfortable days in the hills. Coming in men’s and women’s anatomical lasts, the Force X uses two power strap closures and a flat last for all day comfort at the gym, crag, or long trad route.

SCARPA athlete and author Majka Burhardt touts the versatile value in the Force X as a versatile performer. “I have two pairs in different sizes,” she says. “One of them I size small for more technical cragging, and the larger pair I use on longer days in the mountains when comfort is top priority.”

When the interaction of the climber and the wall ceases, the two objects no longer experience the Force X. Forces can only exist as a result of an interaction—the result of an experience. It’s the beauty of science and love. And, after all, what’s a love affair with climbing without physics?

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Ever Ready: Majka Burhardt Keeps Things Moving

Jun. 4th 2013
By SCARPA

Heraro Arch, 5.12, Namibia. Photo: Gabe Rogel

Majka Burhardt doesn’t slow down much. The SCARPA athlete, author and speaker has spent much of her adult life combining a love and talent for climbing with an equal tenacity toward the arts and social responsibility. Born and raised in Minnesota, Burhardt was an unlikely candidate to be a rising voice for African conservation. But after her first trip years ago, she was entranced and thus, found her calling.

For the last several years, she’s dedicated much of her attention to exploring the cultures of Africa as much as any crag. Burhardt has already written two books, as well as a feature film, and has another film in the works. Between guiding, writing and film producing, she’s also getting married this year. Read on to see how she puts it all together.

How do you balance guiding and climbing with writing and filming? Is it a delicate balance, or do they lend themselves to one another?

I’ve lately come to appreciate balance spread out over a longer time frame. I can make myself crazy trying to do everything I am passionate about every week, but if I look at the longer view—like a year—I tend to chill out quite a bit. Climbing and writing are always part of my existence, and I play with what is taking lead in the moment. Right now I’m in a hyper climbing spree, and heading to Norway for my honeymoon in July to top that off. I’ll be working on some big writing projects when I get back stateside. Guiding fills in when I have a specific client, and filmmaking for me (as a producer) is another way to create story. They flow together as long as I am patient with the pattern.

You spend a lot of time in Africa, as a climber and as a writer and conservation advocate. What’s the allure for you?

Africa was initially unintentional in my life; it’s now inseparable with my most important work. I’m drawn to digging into why we, as a global society, think about things the way we do. There is a lot of potential to help create new ways of thinking and understanding around countries and issues inside of Africa. A lot of this comes from facing my own misconceptions and continuing to poke and prod at them and seeing ways in which they represent sticking points in global conversation.

The last year was fairly interesting. You were climbing in Armenia and had a quiet moment with a viper, followed by a tussle with some rockfall. Objective hazards come in many forms, huh? Can you speak to that?

I don’t think any run in with a viper en route is quiet… I’ve been climbing internationally for almost twenty years and have come to an uneasy understanding with a variety of hazards. Since I’m not wrapping myself in bubble wrap and staying home anytime soon, I’ve had to make peace with my choices.

I believe in learning what you can and making it a goal to not submit yourself to unnecessary hazards. Sometimes it’s choosing a different line, bribing the person driving the car or bus to stop passing around blind corners, or asking a snake expert to lie to you in the moment and tell you the toxic truth over a beer. I’m a big fan of coming home and I remind myself of that every time I leave.

Mt. Namuli in Mozambique.

You’ve said you’re not a runner, though you organized Ethiopia’s first ever trail race this March—with some big names in running. How did you get involved with that?

Accelerate Ethiopia was born out of a desire to link the immense running culture of Ethiopia with the outstanding opportunities being created in Ethiopia via sustainable development. I’m not a runner (good catch) but with two books about Ethiopia under my belt (Vertical Ethiopia and Coffee Story Ethiopia) I am someone who is committed to helping create a new vision of Ethiopia.

I produced the project in partnership the Himalayan Cataract Project, a leader in providing high-quality, low-cost eye care optimized for the developing world and imagine1day, a charity educating the next generation of leaders in Ethiopia. The event was a huge success with 179 runners in Ethiopia’s first ever trail race, 871 successful sight restoring surgeries, one new library to serve 500 primary school students, and a 1,000-person rural community in the heart of Northern Ethiopia. The running was off the hook with Scott Jurek, Gebre Gebremariam and Yemane Tsegay as our superstars and eleven committed fundraiser runners from around the world. Even with all that inspiration I didn’t run—think doubleheader back surgeries and a desire to keep climbing. Stay tuned for a September feature on Accelerate Ethiopia in Outside Magazine.

Back to climbing, what SCARPA products are you keen on these days?

I’m always tucking my Vapors into my climbing pack for micro edging or technical crack climbing and I’ve recently gotten into the Rapid LT’s—both for approach and for how easy it is to pop ‘em on my harness for a climb.

You’re headed back to Africa this coming October, specifically Mozambique, for a film conservation project. What’s that about?

The Lost Mountain is a collaboration between a motley crew of international scientists, conservationists, global adventurers and filmmakers. It’s vertical science on Mozambique’s second highest mountain, Mt Namuli, with new species of geckos and frogs and beetles and ants, not to mention crazy snakes and crocodiles. Our goals are to survey the biodiversity and conservation needs, to raise awareness, and to build partnerships for the conservation of Mt. Namuli. Yes, it really is about all of that. We did a recon trip to the area in 2011 and confirmed you really can climb grass clumps up a 55-degree 2,000′ granite face. It’s been full on ever since.

I have an all-star team and we’re doing our best to create big conversations about one of the world’s least-explored and most-threatened habitats. We’re creating media for local Mozambican and international audiences, and we’re launching a big Kickstarter initiative August 1st and finishing all of our fundraising now. This is the project that wakes me up at 2:00 AM with excitement and what if’s. I can’t wait.  http://thelostmountainfilm.com/

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Espana Tranquila: Relaxing Spain

May. 30th 2013
By SCARPA

SCARPA team member and frequent climber, Scott Bennett, recently spent a few months in Spain on what he calls an “everyman’s Spanish climbing trip.” Bennett hails from Michigan but once he discovered climbing moved to Boulder, Colo. where he works part-time for SCARPA and spends the rest of his time at local climbing spots or planning his next expedition.

Forest Woodward is no sissy alpine climber!

When I told my friends in Colorado that I was planning a spring climbing trip to Spain, the most common reaction, after jealousy, was a quick glance at my meager forearms followed by “Better hit the gym, huh…” In the minds of most American climbers, Spain means steep, hard climbing: the mega caves of Oliana, Siurana, and Santa Linya, giant crushers like Sharma, Andrada, and Ondra. My friend Blake Herrington and I consider ourselves to be traditional, alpine climbers, and so we weren’t sure how we would fare in the land of 9a.

“Summit, or death!” Spaniards take their climbing seriously.

After six weeks, and 5,000 km in our rental car, I now know that there’s a lot more to that magical country than shouts of “Venga!” and enduro pump fests. We visited seven different provinces and dozens of amazing crags, found adventurous multi-pitches, stellar moderates, beautiful views, and of course, more lactic acid than our anemic forearms could handle.

So, if you’ve always wanted to visit this idyllic Mediterranean paradise but figured you needed a hundred more laps at the gym first, here’s a quick guide to two of our favorite areas with great routes across all grades:

On the Caminto del Rey in El Chorro. (Photo: Forest Woodward)

Andalusia
Located along Spain’s southern coast, Andalusia is laid back and traditional. Most people still live in small villages that dot the hilly interior, and olive and grapes rule the economy. Scattered among the hills are several excellent limestone crags, mostly centered around the village of El Chorro. Here, the Rio Guadalhorce cuts a gorge 400 m deep, offering climbing and another adventure: the Caminto del Rey. This century old walkway, essentially a via ferrata, offers plenty of exposure while requiring only basic climbing skills (plus, a harness and some daisy chains).

Climbing in the gorge at El Chorro (Photo: Forest Woodward)

Big walls directly above the town of El Chorro offer multipitch climbs, as well as a huge cave with a few harder routes. A handful of moderate routes in the back of the cave stay dry in a downpour. Nearby, the cliffs of the Makinodromo, Desplomilandia, and Loja also offer excellent cragging.

Jenni topping out an amazingly juggy, 8-pitch 5.9 sportclimb.

Valencia
Famous for citrus and British retirees, the “Costa Blanca” also hosts world class climbing. We stayed in the resort town of Calp, and took advantage of “off-season” pricing in March to find a four-person seaside apartment for about $200 per week! A short walk along the beach brought us to the “Penyal de l’fac”, a gorgeous 300 m tower of white limestone jutting from the blue Mediterranean. About a dozen high quality routes, from 5.9 to 5.12, trace paths up this promontory, and a crazy tunnel provides a walk-off descent back to happy hour drinks on the beach.

More amazing seacliff climbing south of Calp. (Photo: Blake Herrington)

The surrounding coast and hills offer many other excellent crags, including the world-class zone of Sella, which is worth a trip by itself.

I hope after seeing these photos and reading these descriptions you’re stoked for a Spanish adventure, even if you don’t climb 5.14! For more info on the climbing and logistics, Rockfax has great guidebooks to both areas.

I sneak in one more pitch as Blake cooks dinner. (Photo: Forest Woodward)

Guidebook links:
http://www.rockfax.com/climbing-guides/all/costa-blanca-2013/
http://www.rockfax.com/climbing-guides/all/el-chorro-2008/

Photos courtesy of Forest Woodward, Blake Herrington, and Scott Bennett.

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Chris Davenport and The Centennials Skiers Continute to Ski 47 of Colorado’s 13,000-ft. Peaks

May. 23rd 2013
By SCARPA

SCARPA ambassador  Chris Davenport is an icon in the world of big mountain skiers. He’s skied everywhere from the LHOTSE face of Mount Everest to the Antarctic Peninsula. He’s appeared in over thirty ski films and holds two World Extreme Skiing Championship titles. Davenport has made numerous first descents and skied hundreds of classics. When not skiing (which, by the way, is very rare) he commentates on ABC Sports, ESPN, and Outside Television, delivers professional lectures to businesses on risk management, and spends time with his family in Colorado. Davenport was also named one of ESPN’s 50 Most Influential People in Action Sports. In addition, he’s even written two coffee-table books: Ski the 14ers and 50 Classic Ski Descents of North America. In short, Davenport has a glittering ski resume—and has no plans to slow down.

Davenport started his career racing down big faces in Alaska, hucking 30-foot cliffs along the way. Now, his focus is geared more toward ski mountaineering. From January 2006 to January 2007 he became the first person to climb and ski all of Colorado’s 14’ers (a mountain summit taller than 14,000 feet) in one calendar year. To clarify, this means he climbed and skied 53 peaks in one year! Last year, Davenport embarked on a mission called “The Ring of Fire Tour” – an attempt to ski 15 volcanoes throughout the Pacific North West and California over the month of May. Because of good weather, Chris and his team were able to complete the mission in just 14 days. They climbed 78,641 feet, and traveled about 142 miles on skis.

Two of his companions from The Ring of Fire Tour are fellow Aspenites, Ted and Christy Mahon. Both are highly accomplished ski mountaineers in their own right. Ted and Christy have skied all of Colorado’s 14ers (Christy was the first woman to do so) and have both climbed numerous mountains around the world. This combination of knowing each other locally and having all skied Colorado’s 14ers sparked the idea in their heads to ski the Centennials.

Colorado was granted statehood in 1876 (100 years after America became a country) and thus became known as the Centennial State. As climbing grew in popularity, people started referring to the one hundred tallest peaks in the state as the Centennial Peaks in tribute to the Colorado’s nickname. People have climbed every Centennial – Christy Mahon for example – but no one has ever skied all of them.

For people like Davenport, and the Mahons, they prefer challenges that others haven’t accomplished, or attempted. The group’s plan was to ski as many of the mountains together as their differing schedules would allow. Unlike the 14ers, there was relatively little beta on ski routes on many of the 13er Centennials since most aren’t skied as often as their 14er cousins. However, with this group’s experience, topo-maps, satellite images, and advanced knowledge of backcountry safety, they were able to put their plan into action.

By the end of 2012, the group collectively skied nine of the 13er Centennials, adding onto the 53 14ers, making a grand total of 61 Centennials skied. This spring, the team has climbed and skied 14 more Centennials. This included a one-day, four peak traverse outside of Breckenridge. Other memorable days included their descent down the aesthetic Pearl Couloir on Cathedral Peak, skiing the Dragon’s Egg Couloir on Mount Meeker, and climbing Teakettle Mountain (considered by many to be the hardest Centennial climb).

Follow Davenport and The Centennial Skiers as they continue their journey to ski all of Colorado’s 47 13,000-foot peaks: centennialskiers.com

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF CENTENNIALSKIERS.COM

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Bringing (Back) Climbing: Starting a Community Climbing Initiative in Wyoming

May. 21st 2013
By SCARPA

SCARPA athlete and professional climber and coach, Alli Rainey, recently ventured off the beaten path to investigate rumors of an impressive bouldering wall at a wellness center in Thermopolis, Wyoming. Not only did Alli confirm the rumor, she and her husband Kevin spent several days working with the facility to update the walls and plant a seed to grow a climbing community in this small town.

Tucked in the back of a wellness center in Thermopolis, Wyoming, lies a relatively untapped resource – a cool bouldering wall, complete with plenty of holds, a variety of angles, textured surfaces, and a modern flooring system plus plenty of extra draggable mats. I’ve known for a while that there was a climbing wall at this recreation facility, but I’d never heard much about it. I had no reason to check it out until Kevin and I traveled to the Gottsche Wellness Center for fitness classes this winter.

I was shocked when I walked around the corner and saw the wall for the first time. Let’s face it, when you hear that there’s a bouldering wall at a recreation center, more often than not, it turns out to be disappointing – an ill-conceived nod at the idea of climbing for fitness. Constructed or selected (or both) by someone who knows nothing about bouldering whatsoever. Well this is not the case at Gottsche – not in the least. Here we found a well-designed, nicely constructed modern bouldering wall. It’s a place that we’d definitely train at ourselves if we didn’t have our own training facility at home.

What was even more shocking to our climbers’ sensibilities was the fact that no one appeared to be showing this wall any love. When encountering a facility for climbing like this one, it’s sort of expected that there will be an after-school crowd of kids or an after-work adult crowd. But on every occasion we were there, not a soul climbed. For us, both longtime climbers, to witness such a resource being so underutilized borders on blasphemy.

After thinking about what could be done to remedy this situation, I put in a call to the center’s Wellness Director to set up a meeting. During the meeting we found out that it wasn’t for lack of interest in the wall, but more a result that nobody working there really knew much about climbing. For this reason, they were most welcoming of our presence to help spread the word – great news for us! We also learned that Gottsche even has a full line of climbing shoes at the front desk, which makes it easy for anyone to get started with no investment beyond a gym membership or the drop-in fee ($5).

The week after the meeting, we were setting all-new problems to try to breathe new life into the climbing wall. We spent six hours putting up four different circuits of six problems for people to sample, with each circuit color-coded and each color indicating a different level of difficulty. I wrote up sheets explaining the basic rules behind indoor bouldering. We wanted to show climbing can be an activity appropriate for all ages, for both fitness and fun.

The following Tuesday, we held an open house so the community could come in, ask questions, and try climbing out. For us, sharing our longtime love of climbing with total newcomers is always fun. Explaining the goal of solving a puzzle through movement, and then being able to watch them attempt to unlock the moves is very rewarding. It reminds us of the core appeal of climbing – pushing one’s own  limits. That core experience is always the same, regardless of the difficulty, or ability of the person. It’s living wholly in the moment as an integrated being; mastering mind, and body to rise to meet the challenge at hand. It made us smile and laugh just to see this happening. If the wall had feelings, I’m sure it would’ve felt loved too.

Everyone who attended was just so enthusiastic, willing to try something new. It felt like a celebration of playful human movement. We particularly enjoyed watching one young woman get so involved – her first time climbing ever – that even after ripping two flappers on her fingers (“What can I do about this?” she asked, and Kevin obligingly provided climbing tape and a quick lesson in trimming/taping flappers), she continued to climb to exhaustion. She told me, “That yellow problem over there? I’ll have to come back for that one next time.”

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Retailer Shout Out: New York’s Rock and Snow

May. 16th 2013
By SCARPA

In 1982 a young climber named Rich Gottlieb started covering lunch shifts at a small climbing shop called Rock and Snow in New Paltz, New York. Back then, it was only a part time gig. Fast-forward thirty years, and he’s in charge of one of the most long-standing, independent climbing shops in North America.

Opening its doors in 1970, Rock and Snow was the baby of Richard “Dick” Williams, a member of the “Vulgarians” climbing contingency – an infamous group of savvy, scalawag counter-culturists who found glory exploring the Gunks’ vertical wilderness in the 1960s. Rock and Snow quickly became the place for climbers and backpackers to find gear, beta and partners for the Gunks.

For more than forty years Rock and Snow has remained the go-to hub for climbers, hikers, and backpackers of all disciplines for gear, beta, and route info for all things Gunk. Owner Rich Gottlieb believes the success of the store is due in part to the commitment to egalitarian climbing ethos, an engaged and passionate staff, as well as an appreciation of irreverent humor. Rock and Snow has a cult reputation for producing esoteric t-shirts that amuse, befuddle, and ultimately entertain, intimating a connection to the Vulgarian enthusiasms of the 1960s.

Since then, the shop has seen some wear and tear. For instance, it burned to the ground on February 20, 1990 in an electrical fire. For three years Rock and Snow took refuge across the street while they rebuilt a new building with slightly more room, totaling 2,000-square-feet.

The current Rock and Snow structure is an award-winning, barn-styled design with high vaulted ceilings, exposed beams, and stainless steel cables holding together the pitched roof. Brimming with gear, history, and an inclusive vibe, Rock and Snow never lost touch with its original image.

Unlike many stand-alone shop owners who maintain a skeletal crew of devoted employees, Rock and Snow takes a different approach. “We run a big crew,” says Gottlieb. On weekends when the throngs of New York City climbers head for the hills, it gets busy. In big box stores it can be a struggle looking for someone to help you. “At Rock and Snow,” says Gottlieb, “it’s the other way around. We’re looking for you.”

Rock and Snow has long been a contributor to community events as well. They partner with running races, conduct shoe demos, provide rental packages, and participate in a long standing climbing festival. More recently they’ve added a consignment shop around the corner for climbers and outdoor enthusiasts to soften the realities of buying gear in a struggling economy. “We saw the need in the rough economy,” says Gottlieb. “And it seemed like the right time.” The consignment shop continues to bloom as summer approaches.

Many climbing shops develop their own cultures, often becoming unapproachable to newer or novice climbers. Not Rock and Snow. “We don’t want that sense of elitism here,” says Gottlieb. “We want an accessible environment for all who come in. We’re courteous, and very knowledgeable. We don’t play games and give people what we want them to have. We get them what they need.”

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Keeping the Spark Alive: The SCARPA Spark GTX

May. 14th 2013
By SCARPA

Slowly, mountain run-off and latent winter storms give way to spring weather. But it’s never easy. This time of year it’s a crapshoot to predict trail conditions. Morning squalls drop an inch (or more) of snow, leaving intermediate wet zones, slippery corners and Oh, shi-! moments in the event of a misstep. Nevertheless, when the sun starts taunting us through office windows the urge to seek out our favorite single track pulls from every direction. It’s ironically frustrating.


Men’s Spark GTX

Enter the Spark, SCARPA’s mountain minimal trail running shoe. Merging the best ideals of minimalism with the realities of a trail runner’s needs in rugged terrain, these goals come to life in the Spark, as well as the new Spark GTX, the waterproof/breathable option of the award-winning trail shoe—the ideal tool in the coming mud season.

The Spark’s architecture combines minimal uppers with the appropriate level of traction, support, and underfoot cushioning to deliver the perfect balance between weight and performance. The midsole provides 14-mm of cushion in the heel and 8-mm in the forefoot, for a drop of 6-mm. The outsole was designed to provide excellent traction, while still saving weight – 23 percent lighter than our standard platform.

Women’s Spark GTX

SCARPA athlete Cory Richards spends a lot of time trekking in extreme climates, staving off subzero conditions by constantly moving. When he’s not in the high Himalayas or in Antarctica climbing in the land of the midnight sun, he prefers the Spark for training runs in the foothills outside of his home in Boulder. “There super light, but they’re still a real running shoe,” he says, touting their nimble but protective feel on rocky terrain.

The Spark has a flexible, high tensile fabric in the forefoot that helps provide forefoot protection with very little weight, whereas the GTX has 1.2-mm H-EVA forefoot strike plate for protection, raising the overall weight just a tad. The uppers are synthetic with minimal overlays (the GTX version boasts a Gore® waterproof/breathable barrier for wetter, muddier conditions). Again, the goal is to only use overlays where they are needed. We’ve also incorporated planet-friendly features into the Spark, with recycled content in the upper fabric and synthetic leather, as well as the laces and lining. The Spark also features EcoPure™ in the midsole, which allows it to biodegrade much more quickly at the end of its product life.

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