I’m woken by the violent buzzing of Nick’s alarm. He has his phone set to the “old phone” ringtone, which in my 4am stupor feels like a minor explosion to my head.
The strident sound is accompanied by his phone vibrating on the plastic lining of my truck bed and an abrupt sit-up from Nick to end the aggression. I comment in a not-so-zen manner about the onslaught, to which Nick replies in his usual matter-of-fact way: “Well, we have to get up.”
As you click through the prompts when buying a pair of Scarpa shoes online you are asked if you would like to donate to the Access Fund. You may wonder what value this has…Myself, Jimmy Keithley, and my family headed to Oakland, CA this past weekend for the Access Fund Annual Summit and Dinner. Keep on reading to see what we experienced and you will see the importance of such an organization. The weekend consisted of workshops that focused on various issues affecting climbers, as well as a semi formal dinner party focusing on raising funds and highlighting some of those in our community.
Answering Jeff’s Question:
“Why do we bother doing this?” In the last 5,000 foot climb of the Ouray 50 mile run, Jeff Stephens, my pacer, asked me this question. It was two o’clock in the morning and we had just embarked on the final ten miles of the race. “There is no grand enlightenment waiting at the end so what is it that attracts us to this?” he continued.
Hiking a mountain, running a trail, approaching a climb—these activities seem pretty similar, right? The
thought of needing a different shoe for each one sounds crazy, until you picture this scenario…
Your feet are slipping out from under you, all control of your upward motion is gone and no matter how
hard you press your toenails into the sole of your shoe, nothing will stop you from sliding down the rock.
You are now on all fours, attempting to use your fingertips to grip the granite beneath you, but to no
avail. Keeping up with your crew? Consider that out of the question, thanks to your poor footwear
choice for today’s approach.
What is the best way to get good at building anchors and placing gear?
This is the most asked question that I get when I am teaching climbers at climbing festivals.
Here is what I tell my clients.
1. Know your rack. This means that you should (with practice) be able to eye a crack or placement up and be able to grab the proper piece of gear to place on the first try. This also means that you should have a system for placing your gear on your harness or shoulder sling (or combination) that you can visualize while blindfolded. If you struggle with the sizes and grab the incorrect pieces it can and will slow you down, pump you up and make the entire climb feel much more difficult than it actually is.
If you’ve ever considered climbing a trip to South Africa, no doubt you’re gunning for the legendary Rocklands, scenic Table Mountain or the enchanted Waterfall Boven. Right?
If you believe the hype, these zones are South African climbing, but look just a little deeper and you’ll realize this country is so stacked with amazing rock, it’s unlikely you’ll ever get to know it all, even if you spend a lifetime there.
Do You Practice Yoga?
You may practice yoga already without necessarily labeling it as yoga.
A formal yoga practice can involve much, much more than just an asana (pose) practice, and practicing yoga does not necessarily include asana for all formal yoga practitioners. Additionally, it’s by no means a far stretch to consider a regular dedicated, inward-focused, rock-climbing practice a form of asana practice in and of itself.
The word yoga itself can be translated several ways. My preferred translation is simply “to unite.” We are striving to unite within ourselves, to cultivate and maintain a quiet equanimity within. Attaining a state of yoga involves letting go of the need for external circumstances or outcomes to match internal expectations or desires.
Deep snow, steep ice sheets, excessive heat, 18 rappels, and minimal food…sounds likes the recipe for a successful first ascent, right? Despite the imperfect ingredients, SCARPA athletes, Graham Zimmerman and Scott Bennett made their way to the top of K6 West. This month, they were recognized by the American Alpine Club for this incredible achievement.
On June 3, 2017, The American Alpine Club presented them with the 2017 Cutting Edge Award for their first ascent on the Southwest Ridge of K6 West, a 7,040-meter (23,097-foot) peak in the Karakoram.
Photo: Truc Allen Media
Photo By: Fred Marmsater.
Initially, when I had planned to write this post, I thought that I would be discussing how to make a smooth transition from a winter of skiing to getting back to summer running. After a little more thought, it turns out that this transition has given me a greater insight into how multi sport mental toughness is the key to staying strong, both mentally and physically, while training and competing in more than one sport.
For the rest of the winter 2017 22 Designs, in partnership with SCARPA, will be crisscrossing the country with a fleet of new NTN telemark bindings and skis and SCARPA boots to spread the stoke of telemark skiing. It’s the perfect opportunity to try a new way to slide on snow at a ski hill near you.
Weston Deutschlander drops a knee in the Unita Mountains. Photo: Adam Clark
