Alli Rainey spent the fall participating in and representing SCARPA at climbing events such as Rocktoberfest and the Team Clif Bar athlete summit where she got to know athletes in other sports, such as Chris Davenport. She also honed her sport-climbing skills in the Red River Gorge and played a supporting role for her climbing partner as he set up new sport routes.
It’s been a busy fall season filled with events for me, as well as my annual pilgrimage to the Red River Gorge to work on honing my still-developing steep sport-climbing skills. Autumn kicked off with participation in the local Bureau of Land Management’s National Public Lands Day trail maintenance event near our home in Wyoming. After that, along with my husband, Kevin Wilkinson, and my dog, Jedi, I embarked on the 24-hour drive to Kentucky, stopping for the night in the middle of Iowa before continuing on to arrive just in time to be a part of Rocktoberfest 2012. We taught an intermediate sport-climbing clinic, spending the day sharing our knowledge before I handed out SCARPA goodies to all the participants. Continue reading...
Triple Crown Bouldering Series 2012 Wrap-up.
Written by Seth Bentley
Photos by Michael Rosato
First Leg–Hound Ears
It was a cool morning when competitors for the Hound Ears leg of the 2012 Triple Crown rustled out of their tents brimming with excitement, anticipation, and the occasional case of van envy. Gathering in the field, crashpads were quickly loaded as everyone is fully aware that this is their only day of the year to take advantage of the amazing Hound Ears boulders.
Meanwhile, two of the newest members of the Southeast SCARPA Grassroots Team, Mike Rosato and Seth Bentley, began frantically cramming demo gear into Mike’s already packed up Tahoe. Mike being in the midst of a week long bouldering excursion had, in true car camping style, forgotten none of the comforts of home and left little room for demo shoes. Nevertheless they set off to the Hound Ears boulders proudly bearing a nice run of SCARPA demo shoes up to the boulder field. On a slight detour, the two proudly wore the shoes all around the Hound Ears neighborhood, because it turns out Mike’s three previous seasons of competing in Hound Ears where not enough to instill the directions in his memory. At least he’s a strong climber. Continue reading...
There is an interesting sensibility for those of us who enjoy climbing in cold, wintry weather—a dynamic that is different from sunny rock climbing. Ice, wind and snow are the norm, a trinity of variables that command our attention and create a myriad of ever-changing challenges in the frozen vertical wilderness. And it’s in these landscapes that many climbers aspire to thrive.
SCARPA’s contribution to this aesthetic is the Phantom 6000, the most technical double boot for climbing in cold conditions. Built for alpinists who demand precision and performance in cold, harsh environments, the 6000 is a culmination of fit, performance and durability, the hallmarks of storied Italian craftsmanship.
From the ground up, the 6000 uses the SCARPA/Vibram Mulaz Sole Package, a deft arrangement of materials organized to maximize warmth, comfort, traction, dexterity and climbing performance. The outer sole features a design that facilitates precision edging and front pointing, while the dual-density midsole employs a polyurethane insert below the heel for superior absorption on long summit pushes. TPU inserts on the toe and heel are designed for a snug, exact boot/crampon interface. To enhance dynamic climbing performance, rear rands around the heel area, not unlike what you’d find on a rock shoe, securely lock the heel in place. Continue reading...
Andy and Jason Dorais, two of SCARPA’s ski athletes, started an informal (and free) Skimo race series at Brighton Ski Resort last winter and the event took off. SCAPRA and Ski Trab are sponsoring the 10 races in the series this year. The course will be marked this year with SCARPA pin flags and a demo fleet of Trab skis will be unveiled at the next race. We are proud to be supporting the Dorais brothers and this incredible community race event.
Ski mountaineering is the practice of applying skis to move efficiently through the mountains, often in technical terrain. More skiing equals more fun, and by training fitness and using proper gear we are able to do just that. Cue Ski Mountaineering racing, which is fun, prepares us for bigger objectives, satisfies our competitive nature, and has led to many lasting friendships.
Ski mountaineering races are an odd spectacle. Many of the participants are clad in lycra and adorned in various amounts of carbon fiber. The skis are short and skinny and milling about the starting line, everyone appears twitchy. That is because once the race begins a painful blend of aerobic fitness and technical skills will take the racers typically over 5,000 vertical feet in the span of around 2 hours. Continue reading...
For Fabrizio Zangrilli, a lot can happen in a year. Spanning the globe, the veteran high alpine guide spends the changing seasons leading clients into the vast vertical wilderness, whether on snow, rock or ice. We were able to track him down before he left for yet another season in Nepal. The recently turned 40 mountain guide and high altitude athlete gave us some insight on how he’s going to embrace the next decade, what projects he’s thinking about, and how to enjoy the virtues of taking people to new heights.
You’ve been quite busy guiding the last year. What have been some of the highlights? In the past 12 months I have been very busy; Spring 2011, I was on Makalu, then summer was another season on K2, and the Fall I was on Kyazo Ri, Island Peak and Nuptse’s west face. It was a long year spent at high altitude with not much of a break. I spent 3 months in the winter of ’11/12 in Chamonix skiing, spiced up with a bunch of days ice climbing in Cogne. This spring  I was back in Nepal guiding on Lobuche East and Cholatse, then flew to the Alaska Range for a month.
I lived in Estes Park, Colorado this summer rock guiding during the day. It was a great change of pace to go home every night, to be able to go out for dinner with friends, and have a bit of time to reboot the system for this coming Fall in Nepal. Continue reading...