Scarpa North America Blog

Monthly Archives: July 2013

Recap: Rifle Climbing Festival

Jul. 30th 2013

Rifle has always held a reputation as the place in Colorado for hard sport climbing. With clinics, demos, and countless routes it’s no surprise the Rifle Climbing Festival hosted by apparel brand, prAna, drew over 300 moderate, advanced, and elite level climbers.

Battling major temperature swings – from the low 40’s at night to 100 degrees mid-day – attendees warmed up on 5.11 climbs, switching to 5.12 and 5.13s for the rest of the day.

SCARPA’s demo selection of trailrun, approach, and climb shoes went quickly as everyone awoke with the sun, eager to hit the crags. SCARPA climber, Sam Elias was there to explain the uses and benefits of each shoe to those interested.

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Retailer Shout Outs: Wild Iris Climbing

Jul. 25th 2013

Legendary climber Todd Skinner was onto something when he followed his sister’s advice—she was a gold prospector—to check out the climbing near the small town of Lander in central Wyoming. The Pinedale, Wyoming resident grew up climbing on the opposite side of the Wind River Range with nary a clue of the virtually untapped sport climbing Mecca that lay just east of the Winds. Todd would go on to help develop two of Wyoming’s greatest sport climbing areas: Sinks Canyon, and the beautiful dolomite cliffs of Wild Iris climbing area, the namesake of Lander’s climbing and outdoor hub: Wild Iris Mountain Sports.

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Shingo Ohkawa Trades his Rack for Draws at the 2013 International Climbers’ Fest

Jul. 23rd 2013

A few weeks ago, I had the unique pleasure of attending the 2013 International Climbers’ Festival in Lander, Wyoming—home to the National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS) and two of the West’s most celebrated sport crags, Wild Iris and Sinks Canyon. Despite the fact that I’ve done almost zero sport climbing—ever, the trip was, for this stubborn traddie, a terrific opportunity to see how the other half lives, and how to live off a steady diet of humble pie.

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How to Train on a Campus Board

Jul. 18th 2013

Want to strengthen your hand, finger, shoulder, and contact strength? Then you should start training on a campus board. In this video, SCARPA athlete Mercedes Pollmeier goes through the basics of beginner campus board exercises and proper technique.

If you’re sick of summer revisit this post from Team Crested Butte on how to train for randonee racing.

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Behind the Instinct VS

Jul. 16th 2013

An expert shoe for technical climbs, the Instinct VS was crafted with hard sport routes and bouldering in mind. The Bi-Tension active rand works from the heel to toes, literally pulling the toes back so they don’t jam and crush into the front of the shoe. The toe and heel piece are separate from one another allowing the arch of your foot greater ability to flex and work your toe independently of your heel and vice versa. Power straps on the upper help you maintain a snug fit and eliminate the need to re-lace your shoes leading to faster and easier adjusting. Another feature that separates the Instinct VS from other climbing shoes is its light rubber material that keeps your feet from cramping and offers added comfort and flexibility in the upper.

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Gearing up for the Squamish Mountain Festival in British Columbia

Jul. 11th 2013

Put on your Lumberjack attire, tighten your harness, and get ready for the 8th annual Squamish Mountain Festival (SQUMF) July 17 through 21 in British Columbia. Less than an hour’s drive from Vancouver lies one of B.C.’s world-renown climbing destinations and for five days, the area known as Squamish will be filled with climbing experts, boulderers and all-around crag-cravers.

Hosted by Arc’teryx, SQUFM offers an opportunity to inspire, unite, and celebrate the sport of climbing with others who share the same passion for a life on the rocks. Several types of climbing and bouldering clinics put on by professional guides and pro athletes, gear demos, themed parties, and off-the-rocks activities draw crowds from all over B.C. and the northwestern US.

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SCARPA’s Crux Canvas is Another Work of Art

Jul. 9th 2013

A few years back a little known Italian artist named Leonardo da Vinci used canvas as the backdrop for a portrait he called the Mona Lisa—you might have heard of it. Well, the Italian SCARPA family liked the idea of art built upon canvas, and decided to use the material to create their own three-dimensional masterpiece. They call it the Canvas Crux.

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Small Town Confessions: Kevin Wilkinson finds his climbing pace in outback Wyoming

Jul. 2nd 2013

Kevin Wilkinson keeps a fairly low profile. That’s pretty easy to do when you live in Ten Sleep, Wyoming, and spend most of your day honing your climbing chops and developing routes in one of the best sport cragging areas in the lower 48. The Canadian-born transplant wound up here after meeting his wife Alli Rainey – also a SCARPA athlete – at a climbing festival in Vegas. A good story would’ve been they got hitched then and there. Instead they became climbing partners, and approached their courtship more like a hard boulder problem, keeping at it diligently until they put it all together with skill, determination and honesty. Perhaps a little luck, too. The international couple lives an agrarian lifestyle where Kevin has been one of the more prodigious route setters in the area. “It actually takes away from my skill,” he says. Nevertheless, he’s found a balance in his climbing that many of us could follow.

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