Scarpa North America Blog

Monthly Archives: June 2015

From Yosemite to Baffin: Dave Allfrey’s First Ascent on the Great Cross Pillar

Jun. 29th 2015

Editor’s Note: On May 19th, SCARPA athlete Dave Allfrey and his partner Cheyne Lempe summited the Great Cross Pillar on Baffin Island via their new route Deconstructing Jenga (Grade VI 5.9+, A3+, 900m) after a 10-day push. We asked Dave to explain why he searches out new routes on remote big walls.

From the first time that I walked to the base of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley I knew that big wall climbing would captivate me. Laying my hands on the granite with the wall soaring more than half a mile overhead, I fell in love with the idea of passing day after day in the wild vertical world. To this day, the thought of days or weeks on the wall makes my heart race with excitement.

One of the bivys on Deconstructing Jenga.
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The Other Side of Risk: Yosemite Search and Rescue

Jun. 24th 2015

Words and Photos By Cheyne Lempe

Do you ever wonder what happens to all those close calls after they dissolve effortlessly and float away? Maybe you have heard stories and harrowing tales of near misses while sitting around a campfire. Though the percentage is low, the truth is, once in a while those near misses and close calls become a life altering accident. Unfortunately, those freaky “once in a while” events happen more frequently than you would like to know about. During the past few years of working on the Yosemite Search and Rescue team, I’ve experienced what happens on the other side of risk.

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The Best Climbing Gear for Trad and Alpine Routes

Jun. 24th 2015

Last August, SCARPA athlete Shingo Ohkawa spent month in search of first descents on the classic vertical walls of Wyoming’s spectacular Wind River Range. While he and his partners horsepacked in to base camp, it was all human-powered effort from there. Long days on approach and even longer days in a harness and climbing shoes allowed Shingo to really abuse the best SCARPA has to offer for this style of climbing. While an unseasonably wet and cold August shut them out of many of his objectives, he still came back with some glowing reviews. These are the SCARPA shoes that got him too the wall and up it, including an FA on the West Face of Helen’s Tower 1.

Wind River Range Vista
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What I’ve Learned: Dan Beall Talks his Buttermilks Super Project “The Process” (V16)

Jun. 24th 2015

This winter marked the culmination of my longest project, originally The Grandpa Project, now “The Process” (V16) after a Daniel Woods FA, in the Buttermilks near Bishop, California. Though this season ended regrettably with the destruction of the crux hold rather than a send, I still learned a lot about working a project of this magnitude. Like most people, the bulk of my climbing is on things that I can do relatively quickly. Seven days is the most I’ve spent on a line that I’ve actually completed, yet I’ve been invested in The Grandpa Project for 5 years now. As I spent more and more time on this line, discovering, cleaning, and preparing the line itself, overcoming injury, hold breakage, and weather, I’ve realized that my motivations and approach needed to be much different than they would be for normal climbing.

Dan Beall works The Grandpa Project in The Buttermilks
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SCARPA First Friday Film Fest: June

Jun. 5th 2015

It’s the first Friday of the month which means we’re bringing you the perfect excuse to procrastinate in the office or kick back with a cold one at the end of the day: a fresh heap of climbing and skiing videos. This month’s batch of moving pictures takes you from Alaska to Northern Spain, where SCARPA’s crew of dedicated climbers and skiers continue to push what’s possible in the mountains. #NoPlaceTooFar

alex-puccio-scarpa
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