Scarpa North America Blog

Category Archives: Athletes

Alex Puccio: Comeback Queen

Oct. 17th 2016

For nine-time ABS National Champion Alex Puccio, the last two years have been the most trying of her career. After a nine-month recovery from a June 2015 knee injury she was climbing some of the hardest outdoor boulder problems of her career only to have a freak accident only weeks after a full recovery cause a disc in her neck to rupture. The neck injury would go undiagnosed by several specialists until an MRI, prompted by a shooting electrical pain in her arms during the 2016 Vail World Cup, revealed the severity of the injury. Now after another surgery and several months of rehab, Alex is back to near normal form, winning major comps and testing her limits outdoors. We caught up with Alex to discuss injury and rehab and the mindset it takes to keep coming back.

Alex Puccio Crown of Aragorn

Alex Puccio on Crown of Aragorn (V13). Photo: Joel Zerr

Alex Puccio Crown of Aragorn
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Explore Outside Your Comfort Zone

Oct. 3rd 2016
Lynsey Dyer learns mountaineering skills in Joffe Provincial Park, BC, from guide Julia Niles.

Lynsey Dyer learns mountaineering skills in Joffe Provincial Park, BC, from guide Julia Niles.

Lynsey Dyer learns mountaineering skills in Joffe Provincial Park, BC, from guide Julia Niles.
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Trail Running: How to Train for Big Days

Jul. 12th 2016

This Friday, July 15, SCARPA athlete Joe Grant will toe the start line of one of the toughest trail running races on the planet, the Hardrock 100. Traversing 100 miles with over 33,000 feet of ascent, the Hardrock challenges runners in the rugged and beautiful peaks of Southwest Colorado. Because many of you might get the bug to take on your first big race or mountain objective this summer, we asked Joe to give some insight into the training required to push your limits on the trail. And if a big day is on the agenda, we’ve got the award winning alpine running shoes to get it done.

Joe Grant snaps a spring selfie while running in the Indian Peaks of Colorado.

Joe Grant snaps a spring selfie while running in the Indian Peaks of Colorado.

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Rowan’s First Flatiron

Jun. 23rd 2016

How Rob Pizem Passes Climbing on to His Son

Rowan has been wanting to climb a lot lately. To be clear, I never suggest to my sons that we go climbing. Nor do I ask them if they want to go. They have access to a garage wall at our house, to my Treadwall and to the thousands of sandstone boulders that surround our neighborhood. When they ask, I take them, and when they don’t we go fishing or play ball or go on hikes or do crafts. But on a recent trip to Boulder, Colorado, we climbed one of the Flatiron’s together. This was not a planned event nor a goal or even a wish on my part. It was more of an extension of my observing his interest in climbing. I should mention, Rowan, my oldest, is four and a half.

Rowan Pizem_1

Rob Pizem (Rowan's Dad), working for the FA of Human Centipede 5, 5.13, Zion National Park, UT.
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A Yosemite Schooling: “I Knew Nothing”

May. 23rd 2016

On Saturday, May 14, SCARPA athletes Jacob Cook and Robbie Phillips topped out on one of Yosemite’s test pieces, “El Nino” (5.13c). For Phillips, the funky granite cracks and corners of El Cap proved a serious test. Below is a reflection on his butt kicking and ultimate triumph from his blog. Read the full story his Yosemite experience and the ascent of “El Nino” HERE.

Robbie Phillips climbing in Yosemite.

Robbie Phillips fights with a 5.12 chimney pitch on “El Nino.”

Climbing in Yosemite in early light.
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Alex Puccio: Road To Recovery

May. 10th 2016

In early June 2015, Alex Puccio was warming up for the Vail, Colorado, stop of the IFSC Bouldering World Cup. She took an awkward fall and heard a pop. The first doctor she saw confirmed the worst, a blown knee. Her first run inwith major injury, this was a gut check, but in the year that followed, Alex committed herself to intense rehab and training. Through the experience, she found a new level of focus, determination, and mental strength, and some might argue she’s come back even stronger. Watch the full story below.

Alex Puccio in Hueco.

Alex Puccio in Hueco, TX. Photo: Joel Zerr

Alex Puccio in RMNP
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Haywire: Close Calls on Baffin Island

Apr. 27th 2016

Early last summer, SCARPA athlete Dave Allfrey and filmmaker Cheyne Lempe set out on a journey that would test both their limits, big-wall climbing on Baffin Island. While both had plenty of climbing experience ranging from places like Yosemite, Patagonia, and the Himalaya, neither climber had pushed themselves in an area as remote and unsupported, beautiful and dangerous as Baffin Island. If there’s one dish in which the miles of fjord ice and thousands of feet of vertical granite of Baffin serve in abundance, it’s humble pie of the purest, most enriching variety. Watch Haywire, the story of their trip below.

One of the bivys on Deconstructing Jenga.
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How to Build a Trad Climbing Rack

Apr. 14th 2016

To many new climbers, alpine and trad climbing are the dark arts of the vertical world. Everything about route finding and placing one’s own gear seems intimidating. Hell, even putting together your first rack can be tricky. But SCARPA athlete Shingo Ohkawa is here to help…with the gear part anyway. He specializes in new routing, especially if there’s unusual, creative, or as some might call, slightly odd terrain to sort out. Here’s his suggestion for dialing in your first trad setup.

Wind River Range Vista

Shingo Ohkawa and Oli take in the view after summiting Helen’s Tower 1 in the Wind River Range.

A starter trad rack.
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Video: A – B Red Rock Bouldering

Apr. 12th 2016

Just some good quality climbing footage from SCARPA athlete Michael Rosato (@mikerosay) and several members of the SCARPA southeast grassroots team. Read the full story here.

A␥B from Michael Rosato on Vimeo.

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Michael Rosato works Monkey Bar Direct (V8).
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What Makes a Great Climbing Trip?

Apr. 12th 2016

Good friends, classic problems, and a relative lack of real-world responsibility: Bouldering trips are hard to beat. When several members of our Southeast grassroots team, Michael Rosato (@mikerosay), Al Smith, Keith Share (@sharekeith), Dan Horne, Billy Brown (@southernsteeze), Eric Eigner, and Kaitlyn Honnold (@khonnold), got together in Red Rock, Nevada, over New Year’s 2016, they worked about every problem they could get their hands on and put together a pretty sweet little edit of their trip. We asked the crew a few questions about their experience in one of America’s premiere climbing destinations. Here’s what they had to say.

Michael Rosato works Monkey Bar Direct (V8).

Michael Rosato works Monkey Bar Direct (V8).

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