Scarpa North America Blog

Category Archives: Athletes

From Yosemite to Baffin: Dave Allfrey’s First Ascent on the Great Cross Pillar

Jun. 29th 2015

Editor’s Note: On May 19th, SCARPA athlete Dave Allfrey and his partner Cheyne Lempe summited the Great Cross Pillar on Baffin Island via their new route Deconstructing Jenga (Grade VI 5.9+, A3+, 900m) after a 10-day push. We asked Dave to explain why he searches out new routes on remote big walls.

From the first time that I walked to the base of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley I knew that big wall climbing would captivate me. Laying my hands on the granite with the wall soaring more than half a mile overhead, I fell in love with the idea of passing day after day in the wild vertical world. To this day, the thought of days or weeks on the wall makes my heart race with excitement.

One of the bivys on Deconstructing Jenga.
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What I’ve Learned: Dan Beall Talks his Buttermilks Super Project “The Process” (V16)

Jun. 24th 2015

This winter marked the culmination of my longest project, originally The Grandpa Project, now “The Process” (V16) after a Daniel Woods FA, in the Buttermilks near Bishop, California. Though this season ended regrettably with the destruction of the crux hold rather than a send, I still learned a lot about working a project of this magnitude. Like most people, the bulk of my climbing is on things that I can do relatively quickly. Seven days is the most I’ve spent on a line that I’ve actually completed, yet I’ve been invested in The Grandpa Project for 5 years now. As I spent more and more time on this line, discovering, cleaning, and preparing the line itself, overcoming injury, hold breakage, and weather, I’ve realized that my motivations and approach needed to be much different than they would be for normal climbing.

Dan Beall works The Grandpa Project in The Buttermilks
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SCARPA First Friday Film Fest: June

Jun. 5th 2015

It’s the first Friday of the month which means we’re bringing you the perfect excuse to procrastinate in the office or kick back with a cold one at the end of the day: a fresh heap of climbing and skiing videos. This month’s batch of moving pictures takes you from Alaska to Northern Spain, where SCARPA’s crew of dedicated climbers and skiers continue to push what’s possible in the mountains. #NoPlaceTooFar

alex-puccio-scarpa
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Introducing the Award-Winning SCARPA Furia

May. 27th 2015
Sam Elias boulders with the SCARPA Furia.

SCARPA athlete Sam Elias bouldering on The Monkey Traverse (V4). Flagstaff Mountain, Colorado.

Need a shoe that will find every nuanced hold on steep rock? Then check out the new, award-winning SCARPA Furia. By trading the bulky midsole for a responsive Power Connection Band (a tensioned rubber strip under the foot), legendary SCARPA rock-shoe designer Heinz Mariacher has achieved a new paradigm of sensitivity, softness, performance, and comfort in the Furia. The Furia’s PCB rand helps activate the strength in your entire foot for dynamic movement, insane grip, and delicate touch. It’s so good, Climbing Magazine gave it the coveted Editor’s Choice award. Sport or bouldering, indoors or out, the Furia is the perfect shoe for your next project.

Michael Rosato rocks the SCARPA Furia at the Boulder Rock Club.
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How to Set Great Gym Routes with Joel Zerr

May. 21st 2015

Climbing participation has exploded due in part to the growth of climbing gyms. These indoor facilities provide both a controlled environment for new climbers to test the waters and a place for more seasoned climbers to train year round. Part of the attraction of gym climbing is variety. With quality route setting, a gym can offer a new experience with almost every visit. But good climbing gym route setting is a science not easily replicated according to SCARPA athlete and USAC Level IV sport and bouldering route setter Joel Zerr. Joel currently sets for The Spot in Boulder, Colorado. He’s also guest set for countless gyms and national competitions including USAC youth events and the UBC Pro Tour. Quality route setting, according to Joel, is critical to the enjoyment of indoor climbing and it can actually help a climber progress. Here are a few of his tips to get it right.

Joel Zerr foreruns a route he just set at The Spot.
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Three Steps to Help Kickstart Your Spring Trail Running

May. 19th 2015

Spring is about transition: cold to warm, snow to dirt, and winter activities to summer activities. It’s a transition of muscle usage as well. Often fitness gains from winter activities can transfer well. But after several months of low mileage, it’s important to be smart about your first few trail running sessions. We asked to SCARPA Athlete Jeremy Duncan share his secrets that will help you pull your SCARPA trail runners back out of the closet and get back into the groove.

Trail running in the Roaring Fork Valley, Colorado.

Jeremy Duncan trains in the Roaring Fork Valley, Colorao.

1. Start Slow

Spring trail running in the high country.
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SCARPA’S FIRST FRIDAY FILM FEST: MAY

May. 1st 2015

Can you believe it’s May already? Either way, TGIFFFF (Thank God It’s First Friday Film Fest)! From the freshly powdered trees of New Hampshire to the toughest routes in Lebanon, check out what a few of our athletes have been up to this month.

Working For The Weekend S2|E2 – New Hampshire River Shred

By midwinter, the river beds around the East Coast have filled up and are ready to be shredded. Ben Leoni and his fellow weekend warrior buddy, Dr. Motley, find an ideal stream in backwoods New Hampshire.

Rooted: Climbing Lebanon (Teaser)

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Raphael Slawinski Reports from Everest Basecamp

Apr. 29th 2015

Editor’s note: We are relieved to hear that SCARPA Ambassador Raphael Slawinski and his teammates are safe and sound on the north side of Everest, but our hearts ache for all the people in the region affected by this weekends earthquake. Chinese officials just announced that they have closed the north side of Everest to climbing. Here, Raphael shares his experience on the mountain during the quake and reflects on what’s to come.

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Everest in Alpine Style: Gearing Up for the Ascent

Apr. 22nd 2015

This is the second report from SCARPA Athlete Raphael Slawinski, as he attempted to climb a new route on the North side of Mt. Everest.

Everest basecamp, April 16. I looked up from my laptop, distracted by a sound outside the yellow mess tent. It wasn’t the Buddhist chant that’d been playing all morning in the kitchen tent next door. No, it sounded like a four-wheel drive truck bumping over the cobbles. What, here in Everest basecamp at 5100 metres? Well, yes. The days of trekking into Chinese Base Camp (CBC) are gone. They’ve been made obsolete by a dirt track winding its way up the Rongbuk valley on the north side of Everest, all the way to where it’s blocked by moraines.

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Everest in Alpine Style: Training Day

Apr. 21st 2015

Editor’s Note: This spring, SCARPA Athlete Raphael Slawinski, winner of the 2014 Piolet d’Or for his K6 West expedition, has set his sight on a lofty goal—8,000 meters. And not just any 8,000-meter peak, Slawinski and his partners David Gottler and Daniel Bartsh are eyeing a new route on Mt. Everest. The team will acclimatize and climb this route in pure alpine style, without the assistance of oxygen, fixed ropes, or porters, over the next two months. And thanks to the technological marvels of the modern era like satellite internet and social media, you’ll be able to follow along on this expedition through semi-regular blog posts (like this one) and social media updates posted here and on our Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter accounts.

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