Scarpa North America Blog

Category Archives: Athletes

SCARPA First Friday Film Fest: September

Sep. 4th 2015

And after a short hiatus, we’re back. It’s the first Friday of the month which means we’re bringing you the perfect excuse to procrastinate in the office or kick back with a cold one at the end of the day: a fresh heap of climbing and skiing videos. This month’s batch of moving pictures starts off with the most anticipated ski boot of 2015, the SCARPA Freedom RS. Then we have rock flicks from mega stars like Ueli Steck and Sam Elias. Sit back and enjoy.

SCARPA Freedom RS
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The 7 Best Ways to Apres Your Summer Climbing Sessions

Aug. 13th 2015

Summer climbing isn’t just about spending time on rock. It’s also about friends, good weather, and taking it easy. Apres, that time of relaxation, reflection, and maybe a cold beverage, is one of the beauties of summer climbing. In fact, we love apres so much that we even make shoes designed specifically for the occasion. To celebrate summer and the wonderful institution of post-climb refreshments, we asked seven of our athletes how they unwind after a day of cragging. Here’s what they said.

Summer Climbing Apres
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Everest in Alpine Style: Processing an Early Homecoming

Jul. 7th 2015

Editor’s Note: On April 25, 2015 a magnitude 7.8 earthquake struck Nepal and the region around Mt. Everest killing over 9,000 people including at least 19 at base camp on the Nepali side of the mountain. SCARPA athlete and college professor Raphael Slawinski was on the peak’s northern base camp in China when the quake struck attempting a new alpine-style route up the mountain’s northeast face. Though the north side of Everest was relatively unscathed, the Chinese government promptly closed the mountain for climbing, ending his groundbreaking summit attempt. 

Shrine at Mt. Everest

A shrine near Mt. Everest

Mt. Everest Earthquake
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From Yosemite to Baffin: Dave Allfrey’s First Ascent on the Great Cross Pillar

Jun. 29th 2015

Editor’s Note: On May 19th, SCARPA athlete Dave Allfrey and his partner Cheyne Lempe summited the Great Cross Pillar on Baffin Island via their new route Deconstructing Jenga (Grade VI 5.9+, A3+, 900m) after a 10-day push. We asked Dave to explain why he searches out new routes on remote big walls.

From the first time that I walked to the base of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley I knew that big wall climbing would captivate me. Laying my hands on the granite with the wall soaring more than half a mile overhead, I fell in love with the idea of passing day after day in the wild vertical world. To this day, the thought of days or weeks on the wall makes my heart race with excitement.

One of the bivys on Deconstructing Jenga.
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What I’ve Learned: Dan Beall Talks his Buttermilks Super Project “The Process” (V16)

Jun. 24th 2015

This winter marked the culmination of my longest project, originally The Grandpa Project, now “The Process” (V16) after a Daniel Woods FA, in the Buttermilks near Bishop, California. Though this season ended regrettably with the destruction of the crux hold rather than a send, I still learned a lot about working a project of this magnitude. Like most people, the bulk of my climbing is on things that I can do relatively quickly. Seven days is the most I’ve spent on a line that I’ve actually completed, yet I’ve been invested in The Grandpa Project for 5 years now. As I spent more and more time on this line, discovering, cleaning, and preparing the line itself, overcoming injury, hold breakage, and weather, I’ve realized that my motivations and approach needed to be much different than they would be for normal climbing.

Dan Beall works The Grandpa Project in The Buttermilks
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SCARPA First Friday Film Fest: June

Jun. 5th 2015

It’s the first Friday of the month which means we’re bringing you the perfect excuse to procrastinate in the office or kick back with a cold one at the end of the day: a fresh heap of climbing and skiing videos. This month’s batch of moving pictures takes you from Alaska to Northern Spain, where SCARPA’s crew of dedicated climbers and skiers continue to push what’s possible in the mountains. #NoPlaceTooFar

alex-puccio-scarpa
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Introducing the Award-Winning SCARPA Furia

May. 27th 2015
Sam Elias boulders with the SCARPA Furia.

SCARPA athlete Sam Elias bouldering on The Monkey Traverse (V4). Flagstaff Mountain, Colorado.

Need a shoe that will find every nuanced hold on steep rock? Then check out the new, award-winning SCARPA Furia. By trading the bulky midsole for a responsive Power Connection Band (a tensioned rubber strip under the foot), legendary SCARPA rock-shoe designer Heinz Mariacher has achieved a new paradigm of sensitivity, softness, performance, and comfort in the Furia. The Furia’s PCB rand helps activate the strength in your entire foot for dynamic movement, insane grip, and delicate touch. It’s so good, Climbing Magazine gave it the coveted Editor’s Choice award. Sport or bouldering, indoors or out, the Furia is the perfect shoe for your next project.

Michael Rosato rocks the SCARPA Furia at the Boulder Rock Club.
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How to Set Great Gym Routes with Joel Zerr

May. 21st 2015

Climbing participation has exploded due in part to the growth of climbing gyms. These indoor facilities provide both a controlled environment for new climbers to test the waters and a place for more seasoned climbers to train year round. Part of the attraction of gym climbing is variety. With quality route setting, a gym can offer a new experience with almost every visit. But good climbing gym route setting is a science not easily replicated according to SCARPA athlete and USAC Level IV sport and bouldering route setter Joel Zerr. Joel currently sets for The Spot in Boulder, Colorado. He’s also guest set for countless gyms and national competitions including USAC youth events and the UBC Pro Tour. Quality route setting, according to Joel, is critical to the enjoyment of indoor climbing and it can actually help a climber progress. Here are a few of his tips to get it right.

Joel Zerr foreruns a route he just set at The Spot.
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Three Steps to Help Kickstart Your Spring Trail Running

May. 19th 2015

Spring is about transition: cold to warm, snow to dirt, and winter activities to summer activities. It’s a transition of muscle usage as well. Often fitness gains from winter activities can transfer well. But after several months of low mileage, it’s important to be smart about your first few trail running sessions. We asked to SCARPA Athlete Jeremy Duncan share his secrets that will help you pull your SCARPA trail runners back out of the closet and get back into the groove.

Trail running in the Roaring Fork Valley, Colorado.

Jeremy Duncan trains in the Roaring Fork Valley, Colorao.

1. Start Slow

Spring trail running in the high country.
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SCARPA’S FIRST FRIDAY FILM FEST: MAY

May. 1st 2015

Can you believe it’s May already? Either way, TGIFFFF (Thank God It’s First Friday Film Fest)! From the freshly powdered trees of New Hampshire to the toughest routes in Lebanon, check out what a few of our athletes have been up to this month.

Working For The Weekend S2|E2 – New Hampshire River Shred

By midwinter, the river beds around the East Coast have filled up and are ready to be shredded. Ben Leoni and his fellow weekend warrior buddy, Dr. Motley, find an ideal stream in backwoods New Hampshire.

Rooted: Climbing Lebanon (Teaser)

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