Scarpa North America Blog

Category Archives: Athletes

The Calm Before The Run – Dawn Patrol

Sep. 25th 2017

I’m woken by the violent buzzing of Nick’s alarm. He has his phone set to the “old phone” ringtone, which in my 4am stupor feels like a minor explosion to my head.

The strident sound is accompanied by his phone vibrating on the plastic lining of my truck bed and an abrupt sit-up from Nick to end the aggression. I comment in a not-so-zen manner about the onslaught, to which Nick replies in his usual matter-of-fact way: “Well, we have to get up.”

morningtruck

sunrise
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Run To Feel Alive

Aug. 31st 2017

unnamedAnswering Jeff’s Question:

“Why do we bother doing this?” In the last 5,000 foot climb of the Ouray 50 mile run, Jeff Stephens, my pacer, asked me this question. It was two o’clock in the morning and we had just embarked on the final ten miles of the race. “There is no grand enlightenment waiting at the end so what is it that attracts us to this?” he continued.

Our 50 Mile Ultra Race
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Building Anchors and Placing Gear; How To Do It Right.

Aug. 17th 2017

What is the best way to get good at building anchors and placing gear?

Building Anchors

This is the most asked question that I get when I am teaching climbers at climbing festivals.
Here is what I tell my clients.

1. Know your rack. This means that you should (with practice) be able to eye a crack or placement up and be able to grab the proper piece of gear to place on the first try. This also means that you should have a system for placing your gear on your harness or shoulder sling (or combination) that you can visualize while blindfolded. If you struggle with the sizes and grab the incorrect pieces it can and will slow you down, pump you up and make the entire climb feel much more difficult than it actually is.

Building Anchors
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South Africa Climbed and Uncovered

Jul. 7th 2017

Rock Climbing Table Mountain in South Africa

If you’ve ever considered climbing a trip to South Africa, no doubt you’re gunning for the legendary Rocklands, scenic Table Mountain or the enchanted Waterfall Boven. Right?

If you believe the hype, these zones are South African climbing, but look just a little deeper and you’ll realize this country is so stacked with amazing rock, it’s unlikely you’ll ever get to know it all, even if you spend a lifetime there.

Climbing Table Mountain in South Africa
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The Yoga of Climbing

Jun. 23rd 2017

Do You Practice Yoga?
You may practice yoga already without necessarily labeling it as yoga.

ALLI1

A formal yoga practice can involve much, much more than just an asana (pose) practice, and practicing yoga does not necessarily include asana for all formal yoga practitioners. Additionally, it’s by no means a far stretch to consider a regular dedicated, inward-focused, rock-climbing practice a form of asana practice in and of itself.

The word yoga itself can be translated several ways. My preferred translation is simply “to unite.” We are striving to unite within ourselves, to cultivate and maintain a quiet equanimity within. Attaining a state of yoga involves letting go of the need for external circumstances or outcomes to match internal expectations or desires.

ALLI1
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SCARPA Athletes Win Cutting Edge Award

Jun. 16th 2017

Deep snow, steep ice sheets, excessive heat, 18 rappels, and minimal food…sounds likes the recipe for a successful first ascent, right? Despite the imperfect ingredients, SCARPA athletes, Graham Zimmerman and Scott Bennett made their way to the top of K6 West. This month, they were recognized by the American Alpine Club for this incredible achievement.

Pakistan - K6 2
On June 3, 2017, The American Alpine Club presented them with the 2017 Cutting Edge Award for their first ascent on the Southwest Ridge of K6 West, a 7,040-meter (23,097-foot) peak in the Karakoram.

18891568_10158802447250553_5630617519529433890_o Photo: Truc Allen Media

Pakistan - K6 2
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Multi Sport Mental Toughness

Jun. 12th 2017

Joe Grant running in the Chasm Lake Drainage below Long's Peak. Photo By: Fred Marmsater.

Initially, when I had planned to write this post, I thought that I would be discussing how to make a smooth transition from a winter of skiing to getting back to summer running. After a little more thought, it turns out that this transition has given me a greater insight into how multi sport mental toughness is the key to staying strong, both mentally and physically, while training and competing in more than one sport.

Joe Grant running in the Chasm Lake Drainage below Long's Peak.
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Five Questions with Delaney Miller

Nov. 14th 2016

From the quiet, well-kept streets of the north Dallas suburb of Frisco, Texas, Delaney Miller has vaulted to national recognition as one of America’s top competition climbing talents. Her climbing accomplishments, which include seven sport climbing national championship wins (four junior, three adult) and two top-ten finishes on the World Cup Circuit in 2014 and 2015, have come alongside an impressive academic resume that includes valedictorian of her high school, near completion of an exercise and health science degree from Colorado State University, and a post-secondary Academy and team coaching program. After her busy final year in school in Fort Collins, Colorado, and globetrotting fall on the World Cup circuit, we’re incredibly excited to announce Delaney’s addition to the SCARPA athlete team for 2017. We caught up with Delaney to talk climbing, life transitions, and her new SCARPA partnership.

Delaney Miller in the 2016 World Cup competition in Chamonix, France.
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5 Tips For Early-Season Ice Climbing

Nov. 8th 2016

It’s inevitable at this point, we’ve got many months of wintery weather ahead. The colder nights and shorter days of fall remind everyone that soon–very, very soon–we will be playing on the worlds coolest, natural ice sculptures. Some start the pilgrimage early hunting for those first ice flows and hoping the next bend will reveal a hidden gem that has yet to be discovered. Others head to the crag to hang like puppets off their tools in rock caves and faces in preparation for the overhead icicles that will soon loom from above. Once you’ve experienced the movement of mixed climbing or the feeling of a one-swing stick, you’re likely hooked, literally and figuratively. Ice and mixed climbing is contagious and spreading in a winter environment near you!

Sarah Hueniken and Will Gadd gear up to climb at Zao Mountain, Japan.
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Alex Puccio: Comeback Queen

Oct. 17th 2016

For nine-time ABS National Champion Alex Puccio, the last two years have been the most trying of her career. After a nine-month recovery from a June 2015 knee injury she was climbing some of the hardest outdoor boulder problems of her career only to have a freak accident only weeks after a full recovery cause a disc in her neck to rupture. The neck injury would go undiagnosed by several specialists until an MRI, prompted by a shooting electrical pain in her arms during the 2016 Vail World Cup, revealed the severity of the injury. Now after another surgery and several months of rehab, Alex is back to near normal form, winning major comps and testing her limits outdoors. We caught up with Alex to discuss injury and rehab and the mindset it takes to keep coming back.

Alex Puccio Crown of Aragorn

Alex Puccio on Crown of Aragorn (V13). Photo: Joel Zerr

Alex Puccio Crown of Aragorn
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