Scarpa North America Blog

Category Archives: Athletes

Rob Pizem on the Notion of “Happy Hour”

Jul. 2nd 2014

Rob Pizem is an experienced climber, who has explored the world looking for traditional, sport and big wall climbs. But when he’s not climbing, he has another passion. He describes that here.

Happy hour isn’t just the hour associated with drinking beer with your friends or those couple of hours unwinding after work. If you break down the simple language, it’s just the hour you’re most happy.

SEE SCARPA’S “HAPPY HOUR” LIFESTYLE COLLECTION — THE MOJITO, MARGARITA, MANHATTAN, CITY & MAI TAI

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SCARPA Athlete Updates

Jun. 19th 2014

Once a month, we will be keeping you posted on SCARPA athletes goings-on, whether they’re breaking new records, winning wild races, or are just out there having fun.


May 30 – Scott Simmons completed the fastest ascent of Mount Hood in 1:26:28. Keep up with Scott on his blog.

June 6 – Alex Puccio came in 10th place in Vail, Colorado’s IFSC Climbing World Cup. Stay up to date with Alex on her Facebook.

June 9 – Scott Bennett set the speed record on the Naked Edge in Boulder, Colorado’s Eldorado Canyon in 00:29:53. His friend, Bill Wright, wrote a trip report.

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9 Tips for Multipitch Climbing

Jun. 19th 2014

Sarah Hueniken is one of only 10 women who are ACMG-certified rock and alpine guides in Canada. As a NOLS instructor and a private guide, Sarah has a number of first ascents under her belt, and has competed in many ice and mixed competitions. To add to this month’s theme of trad climbing, Sarah wrote out nine tips for SCARPA fans to follow when multipitch climbing.

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Techno-cal Climbing In The North Cascades

Jun. 10th 2014

Seasoned climber and writer Blake Herrington took time to tell us about his experiences climbing at Washington Pass and what the area means to him.

I was a 19-year-old student when I first climbed at Washington Pass, an area of steep granite spires in Washington’s North Cascades. I was carless and had found a partner (primary qualification: own a car) through a climbing website. I remember fretting over potential temperatures and snow conditions, and I still recall the first route I did – an 800-foot 5.8 on the highest spire in the Liberty Bell group. I repeated this route, with some 5.10 variations, as a “date” with my now wife, Allison. In the last nine years I have climbed abroad and returned to Washington Pass dozens of times, banking up a list of memories, completing new routes, and bailing amid dead ends and storms. I’ve learned about my abilities and my skills as a partner, making Washington Pass a great yardstick to return to and measure myself against.

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How To Love Running

May. 21st 2014

Andy and Jason Dorais are accomplished ski mountaineers, known for flying up mountains in the Wasatch Mountains. But now that the ski season is slowing down, the two have been running trails. Andy told us a story on how they came to love running and their recent trip to the Paria River.

For so many people running is a chore. And although it was like that for us once, now running equals freedom and fun. It can be painful, but it’s always gratifying after the fact. How did we change running from monotonous drudgery to something fun we do nearly every day? Read on.

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Scott Bennett: The Highs and Lows of Climbing

Apr. 10th 2014

Scott Bennett, a professional climber, spent the last three months living and climbing in Southern Argentina. Upon arriving home, the only question he heard was “How was it?” But he has always had trouble answering the question, as the trips are too varied to be captured in a short response. Instead, he defines the low and high of his season here and lets you decide.

Low

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Photo Essay: On Winter Climbing In Scotland

Apr. 3rd 2014

Jon Walsh visited to the Scottish Highlands to sample their unique flavor of mixed climbing. In Scotland, the traditional approach to climbing is strongly maintained and the history of the climbs is well remembered. Modern ice climbing was developed here, and early prototypes by Yvon Chouinard and others were tested on the walls of Ben Nevis and surrounding area. These pictures embody Jon’s incredible trip and the masterful climbing that took place.

Jon Walsh climbs Craeg Meagaidh with accomplished climber Nick Bullock. (Photo: Nick Bullock)

Jon on Creag Meagaidh. It was the third ascent of Ekstacy VIII, 8, 250m. (Photo: Nick Bullock)

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Going for Speed: Josh Wharton Shatters The Diamond Record

Apr. 1st 2014
photo: John Dickey

More than a decade ago, Josh Wharton and Jonny Copp broke the speed record for climbing the Diamond, the 13,000-foot east face of Longs Peak in Colorado. It was a 14 hour roundtrip, from leaving their car and returning to it. He claims they weren’t trying, just trying to stay warm in the Colorado winter chill above timberline. Last year, young climbers beat their record and it was just the motivation Wharton needed to try again. Here is how he stole the title back… at least for a little while.

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Zion Ice: Here Today, Gone Tomorrow

Mar. 26th 2014

Jesse Huey is a rock, ice and mixed climber. After seeing a Climbing Magazine cover of ice climbing in Zion National Park and realizing it was a banner year for ice, Jesse headed to Zion. Here is his write up of the trip, complete with incredible photography.

Having traveled to Zion four times previously for world-class finger crack climbing, it never crossed my mind that Zion held a potential frozen goldmine. Synonymous with adventurous rock climbing, slot canyons and scary aid climbing, Zion could be a seldom-seen winter secret. I wasn’t convinced of the ice potential until I spoke with Scott Adamson, a Utah resident who had spent a large amount of time guiding and climbing in and around the Zion area.

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The Ever-Charging Alex Puccio

Mar. 19th 2014

Alex Puccio probably didn’t think she was going to become a world-class boulderer. That said, she might’ve had some idea after she entered the U.S. Bouldering Championships as a teenager… and won. Since then, she has gone on to become a tour de force in competitive bouldering, winning several titles in the last several years – including eight U.S. National Champion titles. At 24 years old, the native Texan is showing no signs of slowing down and is currently ramping up for another season on the World Cup. Though it’s hard to schedule in the time when you’re on the circuit, she even finds occasion to actually climb outside and answer a few questions from us.

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