Scarpa North America Blog

Category Archives: Climbing

Five Questions with Delaney Miller

Nov. 14th 2016

From the quiet, well-kept streets of the north Dallas suburb of Frisco, Texas, Delaney Miller has vaulted to national recognition as one of America’s top competition climbing talents. Her climbing accomplishments, which include seven sport climbing national championship wins (four junior, three adult) and two top-ten finishes on the World Cup Circuit in 2014 and 2015, have come alongside an impressive academic resume that includes valedictorian of her high school, near completion of an exercise and health science degree from Colorado State University, and a post-secondary Academy and team coaching program. After her busy final year in school in Fort Collins, Colorado, and globetrotting fall on the World Cup circuit, we’re incredibly excited to announce Delaney’s addition to the SCARPA athlete team for 2017. We caught up with Delaney to talk climbing, life transitions, and her new SCARPA partnership.

Delaney Miller in the 2016 World Cup competition in Chamonix, France.
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SCARPA Phantom Tech: Unparalleled Performance

Nov. 9th 2016

Welcome to ice season people. Time to sharpen your picks and crampons. Time to get out and chase frozen pillars. And if you’re current footwear is looking a little ragged, it might be time to upgrade your boots. The new SCARPA Phantom Tech offers a whole new paradigm of performance for mountaineers and ice climbers. Lighter, warmer, and stiffer than any one-and-a-half boot we’ve ever made, the Phantom Tech climbs with incredible ease, precision, and comfort. Tested around the world by SCARPA top athletes, like Will Gadd, Gord McArthur, and Ueli Steck, this boot is ideal for places like Ouray, The Daks, Bozeman, Cody, and the Canadian Rockies.

Sam Magro taps his way up The Good Looking One, WI-5, Hyalite Canyon, Montana.
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5 Tips For Early-Season Ice Climbing

Nov. 8th 2016

It’s inevitable at this point, we’ve got many months of wintery weather ahead. The colder nights and shorter days of fall remind everyone that soon–very, very soon–we will be playing on the worlds coolest, natural ice sculptures. Some start the pilgrimage early hunting for those first ice flows and hoping the next bend will reveal a hidden gem that has yet to be discovered. Others head to the crag to hang like puppets off their tools in rock caves and faces in preparation for the overhead icicles that will soon loom from above. Once you’ve experienced the movement of mixed climbing or the feeling of a one-swing stick, you’re likely hooked, literally and figuratively. Ice and mixed climbing is contagious and spreading in a winter environment near you!

Sarah Hueniken and Will Gadd gear up to climb at Zao Mountain, Japan.
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Alex Puccio: Comeback Queen

Oct. 17th 2016

For nine-time ABS National Champion Alex Puccio, the last two years have been the most trying of her career. After a nine-month recovery from a June 2015 knee injury she was climbing some of the hardest outdoor boulder problems of her career only to have a freak accident only weeks after a full recovery cause a disc in her neck to rupture. The neck injury would go undiagnosed by several specialists until an MRI, prompted by a shooting electrical pain in her arms during the 2016 Vail World Cup, revealed the severity of the injury. Now after another surgery and several months of rehab, Alex is back to near normal form, winning major comps and testing her limits outdoors. We caught up with Alex to discuss injury and rehab and the mindset it takes to keep coming back.

Alex Puccio Crown of Aragorn

Alex Puccio on Crown of Aragorn (V13). Photo: Joel Zerr

Alex Puccio Crown of Aragorn
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Summer Rock Shoe Care

Aug. 16th 2016

We know the drill. A long, hot summer session results in some serious shoe funk so you throw your shoes in the trunk. Then you hit your favorite restaurant for grub or watering hole for a drink. Before too long, someone suggests a cruiser ride, and you decide to just unpack from climbing the next morning. Bad idea. Everything lovely about summer, the sun, the heat, the dryness will trash your climbing shoes. Here are a few tips care for your rock shoes during the hot months. Sending temps are almost here.

Don't kill fido...or your shoes.

Don’t kill fido…or your shoes.

Don't kill fido...or your shoes.
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Rowan’s First Flatiron

Jun. 23rd 2016

How Rob Pizem Passes Climbing on to His Son

Rowan has been wanting to climb a lot lately. To be clear, I never suggest to my sons that we go climbing. Nor do I ask them if they want to go. They have access to a garage wall at our house, to my Treadwall and to the thousands of sandstone boulders that surround our neighborhood. When they ask, I take them, and when they don’t we go fishing or play ball or go on hikes or do crafts. But on a recent trip to Boulder, Colorado, we climbed one of the Flatiron’s together. This was not a planned event nor a goal or even a wish on my part. It was more of an extension of my observing his interest in climbing. I should mention, Rowan, my oldest, is four and a half.

Rowan Pizem_1

Rob Pizem (Rowan's Dad), working for the FA of Human Centipede 5, 5.13, Zion National Park, UT.
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A Yosemite Schooling: “I Knew Nothing”

May. 23rd 2016

On Saturday, May 14, SCARPA athletes Jacob Cook and Robbie Phillips topped out on one of Yosemite’s test pieces, “El Nino” (5.13c). For Phillips, the funky granite cracks and corners of El Cap proved a serious test. Below is a reflection on his butt kicking and ultimate triumph from his blog. Read the full story his Yosemite experience and the ascent of “El Nino” HERE.

Robbie Phillips climbing in Yosemite.

Robbie Phillips fights with a 5.12 chimney pitch on “El Nino.”

Climbing in Yosemite in early light.
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Alex Puccio: Road To Recovery

May. 10th 2016

In early June 2015, Alex Puccio was warming up for the Vail, Colorado, stop of the IFSC Bouldering World Cup. She took an awkward fall and heard a pop. The first doctor she saw confirmed the worst, a blown knee. Her first run inwith major injury, this was a gut check, but in the year that followed, Alex committed herself to intense rehab and training. Through the experience, she found a new level of focus, determination, and mental strength, and some might argue she’s come back even stronger. Watch the full story below.

Alex Puccio in Hueco.

Alex Puccio in Hueco, TX. Photo: Joel Zerr

Alex Puccio in RMNP
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SCARPA First Friday Film Fest: May

May. 6th 2016

The First Friday Film Fest is Back!

We’ve grown a little lazy the last several months. It’s time to resurrect our favorite aid to the Friday state of mind. Chock full of web videos straight from SCARPA athletes to you, the SCARPA First Friday Film Fest is the perfect excuse to kick back with a cold one at the end of the work day. This month’s batch of moving pictures is heavy in verticality. It starts with a moving piece from Cheyne Lempe about his harrowing experience on Baffin Island with SCARPA athlete Dave Allfrey. Then we’ve got a quality rock trip video from Red Rock, Nevada, put together by our Southeast Grassroots Team. Finally, there’s excellent send footage from around the Northeast where SCARPA athlete Bryce Viola has been putting up FAs on the upper right’s hardest boulder problems. Sit back and enjoy.

Dan Horne works Monkey Bar Direct (V8)
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Haywire: Close Calls on Baffin Island

Apr. 27th 2016

Early last summer, SCARPA athlete Dave Allfrey and filmmaker Cheyne Lempe set out on a journey that would test both their limits, big-wall climbing on Baffin Island. While both had plenty of climbing experience ranging from places like Yosemite, Patagonia, and the Himalaya, neither climber had pushed themselves in an area as remote and unsupported, beautiful and dangerous as Baffin Island. If there’s one dish in which the miles of fjord ice and thousands of feet of vertical granite of Baffin serve in abundance, it’s humble pie of the purest, most enriching variety. Watch Haywire, the story of their trip below.

One of the bivys on Deconstructing Jenga.
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