Scarpa North America Blog

Category Archives: SCARPA in the field

3 Tips for Setting Belays in Alpine Terrain

Aug. 14th 2014

Topher Donahue, a photographer, writer and guide based in Boulder, Colorado, gives us three tips on setting belays when alpine climbing.

Amidst the more heroic elements of alpine climbing, like executing difficult leads, enduring full-on weather conditions and managing complex route-finding, one of the most important, yet under-emphasized aspects of alpine climbing—be it on summer rock or winter ice and snow—is choosing a belay location.

CHECK OUT SCARPA’S TRIO OF ALPINE CLIMBING SHOES: VITAMIN, TECH ASCENT & TECHNO X

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Happy Hour at Basecamp: 3 Things to Do When Stuck in a Tent

Jul. 21st 2014

Joel Bettner, a skier, mountaineer and coach based in Boulder, Colo., considers what “happy hour” means in basecamp.

It’s the “in-between” time on an expedition that makes all the difference. So many of us plan adventures with an eagle-like focus on a big goal, all too often neglecting the time spent waiting out storms, recovering or generally living in a tent. That time not actively pursuing the big goal can make or break you; it’s crucial to your sanity and therefore crucial to your success.

THE PERFECT AROUND-THE-CAMPFIRE SHOES: THE MAI TAI

cards-tent-games-happy-hour

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Why Après is the Best Time of the Day

Jul. 10th 2014

After a long day, unlacing rock shoes or unbuckling ski boots verges on a religious experience. And the sound of a beer cracking after a 4,000-calorie day wraps it up perfectly. It makes it seem like après is the main event and the sport is just what we do to make the après feel so darn good.

CHECK OUT SCARPA’S LIFESTYLE LINE – THE PERFECT SHOES FOR APRES

Credit: Dana Lee/Flickr

Some of our best memories of mountain sports are those days after a huge adventure. Here are three of our favorite après escapades.

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Results of a Failed Freerider Attempt

Jun. 19th 2014

SCARPA employee Artley Goodhart took a week off and headed to Yosemite to finally try the climb he’s been dreaming about for years: El Capitan’s Freerider. But what happens when you don’t achieve your goal?


Recently I attempted a project on El Capitan in Yosemite that I’ve been eyeing for years. After training for six months, I was ready to give Freerider (5.12d, 35 pitches) a go. But a day before we left, we saw that Mother Nature had other plans. We made some adjustments to the game plan, but our one-week window was already a little tight.

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How To Love Running

May. 21st 2014

Andy and Jason Dorais are accomplished ski mountaineers, known for flying up mountains in the Wasatch Mountains. But now that the ski season is slowing down, the two have been running trails. Andy told us a story on how they came to love running and their recent trip to the Paria River.

For so many people running is a chore. And although it was like that for us once, now running equals freedom and fun. It can be painful, but it’s always gratifying after the fact. How did we change running from monotonous drudgery to something fun we do nearly every day? Read on.

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Trail Running From Snakes in Baja Sur

May. 14th 2014

Based in Anchorage, Alaska, Matt and Agnes Hage take pride in producing authentic photography for outdoor brands around the world. This time, they took off to Baja California, Mexico for some adventurous trail running with some rad shoes.

Having lived my entire life in Alaska, I’d never really gotten to know snakes. But, as I learned, there’s something primordial embedded in my DNA that kicks in during a snake encounter.

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Meet John Proctor, Climbing Coach Turned Accountant

Apr. 25th 2014

John Proctor is something like a super hero: accountant by day, climbing coach by night. By day, John Proctor works with SCARPA in Boulder, Colo. as the accounting assistant. But a veteran climber of 10 years, with athletes like Alex Puccio on his coaching resumé, John sat down with us to talk about his past, his coaching experience and what working for SCARPA is really like. Here are the chapters of his life.

The Beginning

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Sam Magro’s 2012-13 Ice Season Wrap Up

Dec. 3rd 2013

SCARPA athlete and Montana-based climber, Sam Magro has been climbing crags, ice faces in the Northwest, and just about anything he can scurry up since a young age. Magro spends his seasons traveling abroad searching for new routes and FAs. Last season while climbing in El Potrero Chico, Mexico, the cartel carried out a massive kidnapping and murder of 17 members of a mariachi band. Magro hid in the nearby mountains and waited for a safe escape. However, the horrors he faced in Mexico have not stopped him from venturing to new areas and pursuing his career.

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Skiing Canalone Marinelli

Nov. 21st 2013

Martin Volken is a professional skier, mountaineer as well as owner and founder of Pro Guide Service and Pro Ski Mountain Service, a skiing and mountaineering guide service and retail store, located in North Bend, Washington. Volken earned his Swiss IMFGA mountain guides license in 1996 and has since been leading ski tours along with rock and ice climbing expeditions throughout the Pacific Northwest. He’s published several guidebooks and pioneered many routes in the Cascades.

The Monte Rosa massif is big. Everything about it is actually. It’s main summit, the Dufourspitze towers at 4,634 meters and its height is surpassed only by Mont Blanc in the Alps.

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Early Season Ice Climbing in Colorado

Nov. 14th 2013

Scott Bennett is a well-established rock climber and “dabbles” in ice climbing whenever the opportunity arises. Scott began climbing in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge and has since traveled the globe in search of new routes in areas including Patagonia, Pakistan, and the western states.

Here on the Colorado Front range, it’s been a wet season. Historic rains in mid-September produced massive “100-year” flooding from Boulder to Estes Park, leaving roads destroyed and residents inundated. After drying up, cleaning, and rebuilding, Colorado climbers welcome an unexpected gift of the rains: early season ice! Many longtime locals are seeing formations for the first time in years, or perhaps ever.

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