Scarpa North America Blog

Category Archives: Trips

Haywire: Close Calls on Baffin Island

Apr. 27th 2016

Early last summer, SCARPA athlete Dave Allfrey and filmmaker Cheyne Lempe set out on a journey that would test both their limits, big-wall climbing on Baffin Island. While both had plenty of climbing experience ranging from places like Yosemite, Patagonia, and the Himalaya, neither climber had pushed themselves in an area as remote and unsupported, beautiful and dangerous as Baffin Island. If there’s one dish in which the miles of fjord ice and thousands of feet of vertical granite of Baffin serve in abundance, it’s humble pie of the purest, most enriching variety. Watch Haywire, the story of their trip below.

One of the bivys on Deconstructing Jenga.
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Video: A – B Red Rock Bouldering

Apr. 12th 2016

Just some good quality climbing footage from SCARPA athlete Michael Rosato (@mikerosay) and several members of the SCARPA southeast grassroots team. Read the full story here.

A␥B from Michael Rosato on Vimeo.

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Michael Rosato works Monkey Bar Direct (V8).
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What Makes a Great Climbing Trip?

Apr. 12th 2016

Good friends, classic problems, and a relative lack of real-world responsibility: Bouldering trips are hard to beat. When several members of our Southeast grassroots team, Michael Rosato (@mikerosay), Al Smith, Keith Share (@sharekeith), Dan Horne, Billy Brown (@southernsteeze), Eric Eigner, and Kaitlyn Honnold (@khonnold), got together in Red Rock, Nevada, over New Year’s 2016, they worked about every problem they could get their hands on and put together a pretty sweet little edit of their trip. We asked the crew a few questions about their experience in one of America’s premiere climbing destinations. Here’s what they had to say.

Michael Rosato works Monkey Bar Direct (V8).

Michael Rosato works Monkey Bar Direct (V8).

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Erik Weihenmayer Takes on the Dolomites

Sep. 14th 2015

One of the world’s foremost adventurers and advocates explores the roots and the routes of one of the world’s most famous mountain ranges.

 

Erik Weihenmayer has climbed the 7 summits, kayaked the Grand Canyon, and so much more all while being blind.

Though he’s blind, Erik Weihenmayer has climbed the 7 Summits, kayaked the Grand Canyon, and much, much more.

Erik Weihenmayer has climbed the 7 summits, kayaked the Grand Canyon, and so much more all while being blind.
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Expedition Pakistan: First Ascents in Far Flung Places

Sep. 14th 2015

During the summer of 2015 SCARPA athletes Graham Zimmerman and Scott Bennett spent two months in the Pakistani Karakoram in search of new routes in one of the world’s truly stunning ranges with one of the Karakoram’s most seasoned climbers, Steve Swenson of the American Alpine Club. The amount of planning and training that goes into an expedition in this corner of the world is massive, then everything has to line up just perfectly for the actual send. During this trip, Graham and Scott achieved two impressive first ascents including the Changi Tower (6500m) and a new route up the south face of K6 (8126m). We asked Graham to put together a short photo recap of the incredible trip.

Alpine Climbing Pakistan

First glimpse of the peaks.

Alpine Climbing Pakistan
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Everest in Alpine Style: Processing an Early Homecoming

Jul. 7th 2015

Editor’s Note: On April 25, 2015 a magnitude 7.8 earthquake struck Nepal and the region around Mt. Everest killing over 9,000 people including at least 19 at base camp on the Nepali side of the mountain. SCARPA athlete and college professor Raphael Slawinski was on the peak’s northern base camp in China when the quake struck attempting a new alpine-style route up the mountain’s northeast face. Though the north side of Everest was relatively unscathed, the Chinese government promptly closed the mountain for climbing, ending his groundbreaking summit attempt. 

Shrine at Mt. Everest

A shrine near Mt. Everest

Mt. Everest Earthquake
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From Yosemite to Baffin: Dave Allfrey’s First Ascent on the Great Cross Pillar

Jun. 29th 2015

Editor’s Note: On May 19th, SCARPA athlete Dave Allfrey and his partner Cheyne Lempe summited the Great Cross Pillar on Baffin Island via their new route Deconstructing Jenga (Grade VI 5.9+, A3+, 900m) after a 10-day push. We asked Dave to explain why he searches out new routes on remote big walls.

From the first time that I walked to the base of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley I knew that big wall climbing would captivate me. Laying my hands on the granite with the wall soaring more than half a mile overhead, I fell in love with the idea of passing day after day in the wild vertical world. To this day, the thought of days or weeks on the wall makes my heart race with excitement.

One of the bivys on Deconstructing Jenga.
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The Best Climbing Gear for Trad and Alpine Routes

Jun. 24th 2015

Last August, SCARPA athlete Shingo Ohkawa spent month in search of first descents on the classic vertical walls of Wyoming’s spectacular Wind River Range. While he and his partners horsepacked in to base camp, it was all human-powered effort from there. Long days on approach and even longer days in a harness and climbing shoes allowed Shingo to really abuse the best SCARPA has to offer for this style of climbing. While an unseasonably wet and cold August shut them out of many of his objectives, he still came back with some glowing reviews. These are the SCARPA shoes that got him too the wall and up it, including an FA on the West Face of Helen’s Tower 1.

Wind River Range Vista
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What I’ve Learned: Dan Beall Talks his Buttermilks Super Project “The Process” (V16)

Jun. 24th 2015

This winter marked the culmination of my longest project, originally The Grandpa Project, now “The Process” (V16) after a Daniel Woods FA, in the Buttermilks near Bishop, California. Though this season ended regrettably with the destruction of the crux hold rather than a send, I still learned a lot about working a project of this magnitude. Like most people, the bulk of my climbing is on things that I can do relatively quickly. Seven days is the most I’ve spent on a line that I’ve actually completed, yet I’ve been invested in The Grandpa Project for 5 years now. As I spent more and more time on this line, discovering, cleaning, and preparing the line itself, overcoming injury, hold breakage, and weather, I’ve realized that my motivations and approach needed to be much different than they would be for normal climbing.

Dan Beall works The Grandpa Project in The Buttermilks
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Seven Spring Crags That Aren’t Indian Creek

Mar. 26th 2015

You know winter’s running out of steam when you start dreaming of splitter cracks, perfect pockets and desert towers. That glorious red sand has a way of permeating every article of clothing and crevice of our brains– and we love it. It’s a sign of spring as much as baby bunnies and flowers. Yet if for some reason you’re hoping to switch things up this season, have a look at these other spring crags which feature cool rock and tons of route variety for your soft, pale winter body.

Michael Rosato on top of The Cube Boulder in Red Rock, NV. Photo Credit: Jeremy Thomley

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