Scarpa North America Blog

Finding the Perfect Shoes for all of Your Adventures

Jun. 19th 2013

Arltey Goodhart has been an invaluable member of the SCARPA team for four years in the warranty department and is currently studying pathology and microbiology. He enjoys most styles of climbing – everything from from big wall to bouldering but big climbs that require full commitment and persistence are what he finds most rewarding.

Ah, springtime. Everything is fresh, new and the climbing temps are nothing short of perfect. As a student, spring grants me time to finally venture to the climbing spots I’ve had my eye on for the past semester. For me, springtime equals an agenda of multi-sport days that include climbing, running and biking.

One of the benefits of working at SCARPA is testing the different lines of shoes, allowing me to see which shoe – climb, mountain, trail and lifestyle ­­– fits each discipline best. I prefer an all-day trad shoe, another shoe for technical and steep projects, and a lightweight running/scramble shoe that I can bike in. Sure, this may look like a shoe fetish but it’s not – it’s a preference for function and performance. So, after testing several shoes, I’ve narrowed my list of go-to kicks.

Vapor

All Day Trad:

Early spring means trips to the desert. This requires a strong yet comfortable crack shoe that I use on longer routes in Zion or shorter climbs in the Moab and Indian Creek areas. My first choice: the Vapor, a tried and true shoe. It’s fantastic for crack climbing and technical face sections. The Vapor gives me enough support to stick to thin edges and then jam my foot right back into a crack.

Instinct VS

When changing the scenery and hitting Yosemite granite, I use the new Instinct VS. I’m able to smear on slick granite, stick to thin edges, and crank in cracks. I tend to wear my Instinct VS a bit on the large side for extra comfort and performance on long valley days and haven’t experienced any hot spots. I attribute this to the bi-tension connecting the heel cup to the toe box. They work much more independently of each other than most shoes. This is a huge benefit for multiple climbing styles.

BoosticBoostic

Projects:

For ultra thin, technical projects, the Boostic is my Holy Grail. The V-tension last helps pull your foot into a snug, performance fit, providing precision and support without sacrificing sensitivity.

Like I said earlier, I like to use the new Instinct VS for trad routes but also bring it along on project climbs. Its snug but comfortable toe box is independent of the heel, which enables me to put pressure in a controlled and energy efficient way on small and insecure holds.

Spark

Multi Sport:

For a day of biking, running, and climbing I like to use a super light trail running shoe that performs well while mountain or road biking. The Spark provides all of this, weighing in at only 260g per shoe (size 42). They’re a lightweight replacement for what would normally be a pair of running- or bike-specific shoes. The tread bites down on a platform as well as any bike specific shoe I’ve used providing control on the trail as well.

With so many different sports, disciplines, and foot shapes it all boils down to finding the shoe and fit that give you the most satisfying experience. These shoes are the models that work best for me, but it can be different for every person which is why I encourage you to find the perfect shoe that allows you to get out there, go after it, and it give everything you’ve got!

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