Scarpa North America Blog

Tag Archives: climbing

Building Anchors and Placing Gear; How To Do It Right.

Aug. 17th 2017

What is the best way to get good at building anchors and placing gear?

Building Anchors

This is the most asked question that I get when I am teaching climbers at climbing festivals.
Here is what I tell my clients.

1. Know your rack. This means that you should (with practice) be able to eye a crack or placement up and be able to grab the proper piece of gear to place on the first try. This also means that you should have a system for placing your gear on your harness or shoulder sling (or combination) that you can visualize while blindfolded. If you struggle with the sizes and grab the incorrect pieces it can and will slow you down, pump you up and make the entire climb feel much more difficult than it actually is.

Building Anchors
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South Africa Climbed and Uncovered

Jul. 7th 2017

Rock Climbing Table Mountain in South Africa

If you’ve ever considered climbing a trip to South Africa, no doubt you’re gunning for the legendary Rocklands, scenic Table Mountain or the enchanted Waterfall Boven. Right?

If you believe the hype, these zones are South African climbing, but look just a little deeper and you’ll realize this country is so stacked with amazing rock, it’s unlikely you’ll ever get to know it all, even if you spend a lifetime there.

Climbing Table Mountain in South Africa
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The Yoga of Climbing

Jun. 23rd 2017

Do You Practice Yoga?
You may practice yoga already without necessarily labeling it as yoga.

ALLI1

A formal yoga practice can involve much, much more than just an asana (pose) practice, and practicing yoga does not necessarily include asana for all formal yoga practitioners. Additionally, it’s by no means a far stretch to consider a regular dedicated, inward-focused, rock-climbing practice a form of asana practice in and of itself.

The word yoga itself can be translated several ways. My preferred translation is simply “to unite.” We are striving to unite within ourselves, to cultivate and maintain a quiet equanimity within. Attaining a state of yoga involves letting go of the need for external circumstances or outcomes to match internal expectations or desires.

ALLI1
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SCARPA Athletes Win Cutting Edge Award

Jun. 16th 2017

Deep snow, steep ice sheets, excessive heat, 18 rappels, and minimal food…sounds likes the recipe for a successful first ascent, right? Despite the imperfect ingredients, SCARPA athletes, Graham Zimmerman and Scott Bennett made their way to the top of K6 West. This month, they were recognized by the American Alpine Club for this incredible achievement.

Pakistan - K6 2
On June 3, 2017, The American Alpine Club presented them with the 2017 Cutting Edge Award for their first ascent on the Southwest Ridge of K6 West, a 7,040-meter (23,097-foot) peak in the Karakoram.

18891568_10158802447250553_5630617519529433890_o Photo: Truc Allen Media

Pakistan - K6 2
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Last-Minute Holiday Gift Guide

Dec. 13th 2016

If you’re like many of the folks here at SCARPA, this time of year is about scoring the season’s first powder turns and pitches of ice climbing. Holiday shopping tends to slip off the radar as physical activity provides an easy excuse for distraction. Thankfully, SCARPA has you covered with our 2016 Last-Minute Holiday Gift Guide for every skier, climber, trail runner, and hiker on your list. Up your giving game and save a little money in the process. We’re offering free ground shipping on retail-priced orders through December 23.

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Doug Evans skiing in the Vail back country.
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Alex Puccio: Comeback Queen

Oct. 17th 2016

For nine-time ABS National Champion Alex Puccio, the last two years have been the most trying of her career. After a nine-month recovery from a June 2015 knee injury she was climbing some of the hardest outdoor boulder problems of her career only to have a freak accident only weeks after a full recovery cause a disc in her neck to rupture. The neck injury would go undiagnosed by several specialists until an MRI, prompted by a shooting electrical pain in her arms during the 2016 Vail World Cup, revealed the severity of the injury. Now after another surgery and several months of rehab, Alex is back to near normal form, winning major comps and testing her limits outdoors. We caught up with Alex to discuss injury and rehab and the mindset it takes to keep coming back.

Alex Puccio Crown of Aragorn

Alex Puccio on Crown of Aragorn (V13). Photo: Joel Zerr

Alex Puccio Crown of Aragorn
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Rowan’s First Flatiron

Jun. 23rd 2016

How Rob Pizem Passes Climbing on to His Son

Rowan has been wanting to climb a lot lately. To be clear, I never suggest to my sons that we go climbing. Nor do I ask them if they want to go. They have access to a garage wall at our house, to my Treadwall and to the thousands of sandstone boulders that surround our neighborhood. When they ask, I take them, and when they don’t we go fishing or play ball or go on hikes or do crafts. But on a recent trip to Boulder, Colorado, we climbed one of the Flatiron’s together. This was not a planned event nor a goal or even a wish on my part. It was more of an extension of my observing his interest in climbing. I should mention, Rowan, my oldest, is four and a half.

Rowan Pizem_1

Rob Pizem (Rowan's Dad), working for the FA of Human Centipede 5, 5.13, Zion National Park, UT.
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A Yosemite Schooling: “I Knew Nothing”

May. 23rd 2016

On Saturday, May 14, SCARPA athletes Jacob Cook and Robbie Phillips topped out on one of Yosemite’s test pieces, “El Nino” (5.13c). For Phillips, the funky granite cracks and corners of El Cap proved a serious test. Below is a reflection on his butt kicking and ultimate triumph from his blog. Read the full story his Yosemite experience and the ascent of “El Nino” HERE.

Robbie Phillips climbing in Yosemite.

Robbie Phillips fights with a 5.12 chimney pitch on “El Nino.”

Climbing in Yosemite in early light.
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Alex Puccio: Road To Recovery

May. 10th 2016

In early June 2015, Alex Puccio was warming up for the Vail, Colorado, stop of the IFSC Bouldering World Cup. She took an awkward fall and heard a pop. The first doctor she saw confirmed the worst, a blown knee. Her first run inwith major injury, this was a gut check, but in the year that followed, Alex committed herself to intense rehab and training. Through the experience, she found a new level of focus, determination, and mental strength, and some might argue she’s come back even stronger. Watch the full story below.

Alex Puccio in Hueco.

Alex Puccio in Hueco, TX. Photo: Joel Zerr

Alex Puccio in RMNP
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SCARPA First Friday Film Fest: May

May. 6th 2016

The First Friday Film Fest is Back!

We’ve grown a little lazy the last several months. It’s time to resurrect our favorite aid to the Friday state of mind. Chock full of web videos straight from SCARPA athletes to you, the SCARPA First Friday Film Fest is the perfect excuse to kick back with a cold one at the end of the work day. This month’s batch of moving pictures is heavy in verticality. It starts with a moving piece from Cheyne Lempe about his harrowing experience on Baffin Island with SCARPA athlete Dave Allfrey. Then we’ve got a quality rock trip video from Red Rock, Nevada, put together by our Southeast Grassroots Team. Finally, there’s excellent send footage from around the Northeast where SCARPA athlete Bryce Viola has been putting up FAs on the upper right’s hardest boulder problems. Sit back and enjoy.

Dan Horne works Monkey Bar Direct (V8)
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