For nine-time ABS National Champion Alex Puccio, the last two years have been the most trying of her career. After a nine-month recovery from a June 2015 knee injury she was climbing some of the hardest outdoor boulder problems of her career only to have a freak accident only weeks after a full recovery cause a disc in her neck to rupture. The neck injury would go undiagnosed by several specialists until an MRI, prompted by a shooting electrical pain in her arms during the 2016 Vail World Cup, revealed the severity of the injury. Now after another surgery and several months of rehab, Alex is back to near normal form, winning major comps and testing her limits outdoors. We caught up with Alex to discuss injury and rehab and the mindset it takes to keep coming back.
Alex Puccio on Crown of Aragorn (V13). Photo: Joel Zerr
How Rob Pizem Passes Climbing on to His Son
Rowan has been wanting to climb a lot lately. To be clear, I never suggest to my sons that we go climbing. Nor do I ask them if they want to go. They have access to a garage wall at our house, to my Treadwall and to the thousands of sandstone boulders that surround our neighborhood. When they ask, I take them, and when they don’t we go fishing or play ball or go on hikes or do crafts. But on a recent trip to Boulder, Colorado, we climbed one of the Flatiron’s together. This was not a planned event nor a goal or even a wish on my part. It was more of an extension of my observing his interest in climbing. I should mention, Rowan, my oldest, is four and a half.
Posted in Athletes, Climbing
Also tagged Rob Pizem
On Saturday, May 14, SCARPA athletes Jacob Cook and Robbie Phillips topped out on one of Yosemite’s test pieces, “El Nino” (5.13c). For Phillips, the funky granite cracks and corners of El Cap proved a serious test. Below is a reflection on his butt kicking and ultimate triumph from his blog. Read the full story his Yosemite experience and the ascent of “El Nino” HERE.
Robbie Phillips fights with a 5.12 chimney pitch on “El Nino.”
In early June 2015, Alex Puccio was warming up for the Vail, Colorado, stop of the IFSC Bouldering World Cup. She took an awkward fall and heard a pop. The first doctor she saw confirmed the worst, a blown knee. Her first run inwith major injury, this was a gut check, but in the year that followed, Alex committed herself to intense rehab and training. Through the experience, she found a new level of focus, determination, and mental strength, and some might argue she’s come back even stronger. Watch the full story below.
The First Friday Film Fest is Back!
We’ve grown a little lazy the last several months. It’s time to resurrect our favorite aid to the Friday state of mind. Chock full of web videos straight from SCARPA athletes to you, the SCARPA First Friday Film Fest is the perfect excuse to kick back with a cold one at the end of the work day. This month’s batch of moving pictures is heavy in verticality. It starts with a moving piece from Cheyne Lempe about his harrowing experience on Baffin Island with SCARPA athlete Dave Allfrey. Then we’ve got a quality rock trip video from Red Rock, Nevada, put together by our Southeast Grassroots Team. Finally, there’s excellent send footage from around the Northeast where SCARPA athlete Bryce Viola has been putting up FAs on the upper right’s hardest boulder problems. Sit back and enjoy. Continue reading...
To many new climbers, alpine and trad climbing are the dark arts of the vertical world. Everything about route finding and placing one’s own gear seems intimidating. Hell, even putting together your first rack can be tricky. But SCARPA athlete Shingo Ohkawa is here to help…with the gear part anyway. He specializes in new routing, especially if there’s unusual, creative, or as some might call, slightly odd terrain to sort out. Here’s his suggestion for dialing in your first trad setup.
Shingo Ohkawa and Oli take in the view after summiting Helen’s Tower 1 in the Wind River Range. Continue reading...
Just some good quality climbing footage from SCARPA athlete Michael Rosato (@mikerosay) and several members of the SCARPA southeast grassroots team. Read the full story here.
A␥B from Michael Rosato on Vimeo.
For a limited time, WIN FREE GEAR from SCARPA and Petzl. Hurry and sign up. The contest closes May 13, 2016.
Good friends, classic problems, and a relative lack of real-world responsibility: Bouldering trips are hard to beat. When several members of our Southeast grassroots team, Michael Rosato (@mikerosay), Al Smith, Keith Share (@sharekeith), Dan Horne, Billy Brown (@southernsteeze), Eric Eigner, and Kaitlyn Honnold (@khonnold), got together in Red Rock, Nevada, over New Year’s 2016, they worked about every problem they could get their hands on and put together a pretty sweet little edit of their trip. We asked the crew a few questions about their experience in one of America’s premiere climbing destinations. Here’s what they had to say.
Sean McColl works through M3 in the finals of CWIF 2016.
SCARPA’s newest global athlete Sean McColl did work last week. On March 12, he took home the win against an incredibly stacked field that included Rustam Gelmanov, Jan Hojer, and Jimmy Webb at the Climbing Works International Festival (CWIF) in Sheffield, England. The the technical finals problems played well into Sean’s style. “I managed to pull a couple “off-the-book” climbs,” said McColl of his comp experience. “And adventure my way through some tricky boulders to win the event.” Men’s final’s problem #3 was the real crowd pleaser, requiring insane body tension and some creativity. Watch the problem here. Continue reading...
Sean McColl needs no introduction. He’s one of the world’s most prolific climbers with an incredible resume both indoors and out. And we’re incredibly excited to announce that Sean has joined the SCARPA global athlete team in 2016, further establishing SCARPA as the go-to rock shoe brand for performance-driven climbers. We caught up with Sean to chat about climbing, training, his future goals, and the new SCARPA-Sean McColl partnership.