Scarpa North America Blog

Tag Archives: climbing

Everest in Alpine Style: Processing an Early Homecoming

Jul. 7th 2015

Editor’s Note: On April 25, 2015 a magnitude 7.8 earthquake struck Nepal and the region around Mt. Everest killing over 9,000 people including at least 19 at base camp on the Nepali side of the mountain. SCARPA athlete and college professor Raphael Slawinski was on the peak’s northern base camp in China when the quake struck attempting a new alpine-style route up the mountain’s northeast face. Though the north side of Everest was relatively unscathed, the Chinese government promptly closed the mountain for climbing, ending his groundbreaking summit attempt. 

Shrine at Mt. Everest

A shrine near Mt. Everest

Mt. Everest Earthquake
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The Other Side of Risk: Yosemite Search and Rescue

Jun. 24th 2015

Words and Photos By Cheyne Lempe

Do you ever wonder what happens to all those close calls after they dissolve effortlessly and float away? Maybe you have heard stories and harrowing tales of near misses while sitting around a campfire. Though the percentage is low, the truth is, once in a while those near misses and close calls become a life altering accident. Unfortunately, those freaky “once in a while” events happen more frequently than you would like to know about. During the past few years of working on the Yosemite Search and Rescue team, I’ve experienced what happens on the other side of risk.

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The Best Climbing Gear for Trad and Alpine Routes

Jun. 24th 2015

Last August, SCARPA athlete Shingo Ohkawa spent month in search of first descents on the classic vertical walls of Wyoming’s spectacular Wind River Range. While he and his partners horsepacked in to base camp, it was all human-powered effort from there. Long days on approach and even longer days in a harness and climbing shoes allowed Shingo to really abuse the best SCARPA has to offer for this style of climbing. While an unseasonably wet and cold August shut them out of many of his objectives, he still came back with some glowing reviews. These are the SCARPA shoes that got him too the wall and up it, including an FA on the West Face of Helen’s Tower 1.

Wind River Range Vista
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What I’ve Learned: Dan Beall Talks his Buttermilks Super Project “The Process” (V16)

Jun. 24th 2015

This winter marked the culmination of my longest project, originally The Grandpa Project, now “The Process” (V16) after a Daniel Woods FA, in the Buttermilks near Bishop, California. Though this season ended regrettably with the destruction of the crux hold rather than a send, I still learned a lot about working a project of this magnitude. Like most people, the bulk of my climbing is on things that I can do relatively quickly. Seven days is the most I’ve spent on a line that I’ve actually completed, yet I’ve been invested in The Grandpa Project for 5 years now. As I spent more and more time on this line, discovering, cleaning, and preparing the line itself, overcoming injury, hold breakage, and weather, I’ve realized that my motivations and approach needed to be much different than they would be for normal climbing.

Dan Beall works The Grandpa Project in The Buttermilks
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SCARPA First Friday Film Fest: June

Jun. 5th 2015

It’s the first Friday of the month which means we’re bringing you the perfect excuse to procrastinate in the office or kick back with a cold one at the end of the day: a fresh heap of climbing and skiing videos. This month’s batch of moving pictures takes you from Alaska to Northern Spain, where SCARPA’s crew of dedicated climbers and skiers continue to push what’s possible in the mountains. #NoPlaceTooFar

alex-puccio-scarpa
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Introducing the Award-Winning SCARPA Furia

May. 27th 2015
Sam Elias boulders with the SCARPA Furia.

SCARPA athlete Sam Elias bouldering on The Monkey Traverse (V4). Flagstaff Mountain, Colorado.

Need a shoe that will find every nuanced hold on steep rock? Then check out the new, award-winning SCARPA Furia. By trading the bulky midsole for a responsive Power Connection Band (a tensioned rubber strip under the foot), legendary SCARPA rock-shoe designer Heinz Mariacher has achieved a new paradigm of sensitivity, softness, performance, and comfort in the Furia. The Furia’s PCB rand helps activate the strength in your entire foot for dynamic movement, insane grip, and delicate touch. It’s so good, Climbing Magazine gave it the coveted Editor’s Choice award. Sport or bouldering, indoors or out, the Furia is the perfect shoe for your next project.

Michael Rosato rocks the SCARPA Furia at the Boulder Rock Club.
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How to Set Great Gym Routes with Joel Zerr

May. 21st 2015

Climbing participation has exploded due in part to the growth of climbing gyms. These indoor facilities provide both a controlled environment for new climbers to test the waters and a place for more seasoned climbers to train year round. Part of the attraction of gym climbing is variety. With quality route setting, a gym can offer a new experience with almost every visit. But good climbing gym route setting is a science not easily replicated according to SCARPA athlete and USAC Level IV sport and bouldering route setter Joel Zerr. Joel currently sets for The Spot in Boulder, Colorado. He’s also guest set for countless gyms and national competitions including USAC youth events and the UBC Pro Tour. Quality route setting, according to Joel, is critical to the enjoyment of indoor climbing and it can actually help a climber progress. Here are a few of his tips to get it right.

Joel Zerr foreruns a route he just set at The Spot.
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SCARPA First Friday Film Fest: November

Nov. 7th 2014

Welcome to the inaugural edition of the SCARPA First Friday Film Fest. Here we collect all the inspiring web flicks featuring our athletes pushing themselves in their respective sports. Check back on the first Friday of every month for more of the best skiing, climbing, and mountaineering action from Team SCARPA.

Expand these flicks to full screen and enjoy. It’s Friday, you deserve a break.

In typical Red Bull fashion, the Red Bull White Cliffs comp takes the world’s best mixed climbers and sticks them on the face of a 400 foot chalk wall rising out of the sea. Watch Gord McArthur take on this impressive competition while wearing the new Rebel Ice.

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How to Prevent Injuries When Climbing

Sep. 10th 2014

It’s still summer and we’re still out there climbing before the snow falls (which it already has in a few places). Alli Rainey, a SCARPA climber and coach, gives us a couple quick tips on how crucial muscle balance is for injury prevention.

Climbers get injured all the time, and it generally happens when you’re not strong enough. Although you may hit the climbing gym regularly, do you train your opposing muscle groups? These are the muscle groups that get far less attention from climbers.

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Happy Hour With Alex Puccio

Jul. 23rd 2014

We met up with Alex Puccio on a hot summer day in Boulder, Colorado. She lives just a few blocks from the SCARPA office and although the 25-year-old climber couldn’t make a 5 o’clock happy hour, she was thrilled to meet up for a midday coffee. We sat down with her to talk about where she’s been climbing and what she has in store for the future.

ALEX’S PREFERRED SHOES: THE INSTINCT VS FOR CLIMBING, SPARKS FOR HAPPY HOUR

SCARPA: How did you end up in Boulder?

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