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Tag Archives: Instinct VS

Scarpa North America Blog

Tag Archives: Instinct VS

Happy Hour With Alex Puccio

Jul. 23rd 2014

We met up with Alex Puccio on a hot summer day in Boulder, Colorado. She lives just a few blocks from the SCARPA office and although the 25-year-old climber couldn’t make a 5 o’clock happy hour, she was thrilled to meet up for a midday coffee. We sat down with her to talk about where she’s been climbing and what she has in store for the future.

ALEX’S PREFERRED SHOES: THE INSTINCT VS FOR CLIMBING, SPARKS FOR HAPPY HOUR

SCARPA: How did you end up in Boulder?

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The Ever-Charging Alex Puccio

Mar. 19th 2014

Alex Puccio probably didn’t think she was going to become a world-class boulderer. That said, she might’ve had some idea after she entered the U.S. Bouldering Championships as a teenager… and won. Since then, she has gone on to become a tour de force in competitive bouldering, winning several titles in the last several years – including eight U.S. National Champion titles. At 24 years old, the native Texan is showing no signs of slowing down and is currently ramping up for another season on the World Cup. Though it’s hard to schedule in the time when you’re on the circuit, she even finds occasion to actually climb outside and answer a few questions from us.

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Meet The Family Instinct

Mar. 6th 2014

We had a vision. We wanted a set of climbing shoes to cover the spectrum of technical climbing, bouldering and everything in between. They would be shoes that could defeat any boulder problem, any steep overhang, any wall. They would edge, smear, toe in, but also stand alone. They would be a family of shoes.

Meet the family Instinct.

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Behind the Instinct VS

Jul. 16th 2013

An expert shoe for technical climbs, the Instinct VS was crafted with hard sport routes and bouldering in mind. The Bi-Tension active rand works from the heel to toes, literally pulling the toes back so they don’t jam and crush into the front of the shoe. The toe and heel piece are separate from one another allowing the arch of your foot greater ability to flex and work your toe independently of your heel and vice versa. Power straps on the upper help you maintain a snug fit and eliminate the need to re-lace your shoes leading to faster and easier adjusting. Another feature that separates the Instinct VS from other climbing shoes is its light rubber material that keeps your feet from cramping and offers added comfort and flexibility in the upper.

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Understanding Instinct: Introducing the new Instinct VS

Apr. 16th 2013

Winter has given way to Spring, and those with Instinct are shelving their AT boots for rock climbing shoes, and headed for the warmer climates to return to the sharp end. From sport crags to boulder fields, SCARPA’s Instinct VS is the tool for versatile precision and performance in a sophisticated package. “The Instinct models are my favorite and most used in the entire line,” says SCARPA athlete Sam Elias. “And though it’s called the Instinct VS, and is supposed to be an ‘Instinct,’ it’s truly a different shoe.”

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Rocket to Russia: Gord McArthur gears up for another year on the World Cup Circuit

Apr. 9th 2013

Gord McArthur is digging a hole in his backyard; two, actually. It’s what needs to happen when building the proper training structure if he is going to compete with the Russians on their level. The SCARPA mixed climber had a great past season competing on the World Cup circuit, placing higher than any North American in over a decade. In doing so, he has seen his future. And his future is a 26-foot high arch that will take up most of his backyard. “That’s what it takes,” he says, of going against the hammer and sickle hardmen of northern Asia. We got him to put down the shovel for a moment and give us his take on training at the highest levels, and preparing for a little known comp called the Olympics.

Can you tell us why the Russians are so formidable on the World Cup? The Russians dominate the sport of competitive mixed climbing because they train so well. And by that I mean, they have World Cup structures to train on, year round, and they have a team, amongst themselves, to train with. Having a solid training team/partner(s) is the key to success. You can’t push yourself to your ultimate level unless you have someone there, pushing you, motivating you, correcting you, or suggesting various things to you. They’re smart, really smart, and they know how to train to win.

How did you do this last year on the circuit? What’s it like climbing competitively in Europe and Asia? This year I did really well on the circuit. At the world championships in Kirov, Russia, I had my best result to date. No North American in the last 12 years has made it into the Top 20. Because the sport is so dominated by Russians, it’s tough to gain a spot past the qualifying round. But in Russia I managed to climb super well and landed 15th overall, which was huge.

Competing overseas is tough. North Americans are at a huge disadvantage because of the amount of travel it takes, money, adjusting to new cultures, food, people, languages—it’s not an easy road. But, all that being said, it’s un-freakin’-believable. The opportunity to see the world whilst doing what you love? Why wouldn’t you do it?

You’re building your own training facility in your backyard. Can you describe it to us, and why is it important to making the podium in the World Cup next year? If you want to do well on the World Cup, you need to be super specific in how you train. A lot of the Europeans and Asian representatives have World Cup “structures” to train on, which gives them a huge edge. So, I figured why not build my own? And now, the first North American World Cup structure is going to be in my backyard. It’s the only way forward.

Next season is going to be a huge season, packed with events and, oh, did I mention the Olympics? Yeah, so mixed climbing is going to be a demonstration sport next year. It’s important for me to be at the top of my game going into the coming season—to do well, really well.

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