Last weekend I had the chance to take out the UK’s current rock stars, Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker, to a place in the desert which boasts a very high concentration of sandstone roof crack routes and boulder problems. The climbs vary from thin fingers to massive off-widths and can be up to 50 meters long! Needless to say, they were very excited to get the tour and I was excited to take them back to my old stomping grounds and to a left over project or two.
Tom and Pete (aka the “Wideboyz”) had just come off probably the best month of off-width climbing that has ever occurred and were ready for some more inverted craziness. In addition, another friend Pee Wee, (the Canadian crack climbing “manimal”) was eager to send a project of mine that drive me nuts a few years back! Me, I didn’t even know what kind of shape that I was in because I have been getting crushed by a local project of mine for weeks now. Fitness aside, we were all out to have a good time and do some rock climbing.
The weekend turned out to be a blast, Pee Wee was getting ever closer to unlocking the secrets of my old 27 meter overhanging nemesis. Pete and Tom took turns bashing it out upside down on yet again, another 5.13 off-width and I even managed to resend one of my favorite routes of all time, Army of Darkness. What I enjoyed the most about the weekend was learning more about how to solve problems on climbs. Each of us has our own strengths and weaknesses and we have to exploit them on routes in order to complete them without falling. One man’s hand jam is another man’s fist jam or one man’s dyno to a finger lock is another man’s “no way in hell!” I was able to see how truly differently we all climb and how it all works out in the end to get through a tough or tricky sequence.
Get outside and have an adventure!
Piz : )