Editor’s Note: On May 19th, SCARPA athlete Dave Allfrey and his partner Cheyne Lempe summited the Great Cross Pillar on Baffin Island via their new route Deconstructing Jenga (Grade VI 5.9+, A3+, 900m) after a 10-day push. We asked Dave to explain why he searches out new routes on remote big walls.
From the first time that I walked to the base of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley I knew that big wall climbing would captivate me. Laying my hands on the granite with the wall soaring more than half a mile overhead, I fell in love with the idea of passing day after day in the wild vertical world. To this day, the thought of days or weeks on the wall makes my heart race with excitement. Continue reading...
Welcome to the inaugural edition of the SCARPA First Friday Film Fest. Here we collect all the inspiring web flicks featuring our athletes pushing themselves in their respective sports. Check back on the first Friday of every month for more of the best skiing, climbing, and mountaineering action from Team SCARPA.
Expand these flicks to full screen and enjoy. It’s Friday, you deserve a break.
In typical Red Bull fashion, the Red Bull White Cliffs comp takes the world’s best mixed climbers and sticks them on the face of a 400 foot chalk wall rising out of the sea. Watch Gord McArthur take on this impressive competition while wearing the new Rebel Ice. Continue reading...
Posted in Athletes
Also tagged aaron huey, Andrew McLean, chris davenport, climbing, faces of dav, Freedom SL, Gord McArthur, Jake Sakson, Maestrale RS, noah howell, red bull, red bull white cliffs, scott adamson, skiing, video
There is an interesting sensibility for those of us who enjoy climbing in cold, wintry weather—a dynamic that is different from sunny rock climbing. Ice, wind and snow are the norm, a trinity of variables that command our attention and create a myriad of ever-changing challenges in the frozen vertical wilderness. And it’s in these landscapes that many climbers aspire to thrive.
SCARPA’s contribution to this aesthetic is the Phantom 6000, the most technical double boot for climbing in cold conditions. Built for alpinists who demand precision and performance in cold, harsh environments, the 6000 is a culmination of fit, performance and durability, the hallmarks of storied Italian craftsmanship.
From the ground up, the 6000 uses the SCARPA/Vibram Mulaz Sole Package, a deft arrangement of materials organized to maximize warmth, comfort, traction, dexterity and climbing performance. The outer sole features a design that facilitates precision edging and front pointing, while the dual-density midsole employs a polyurethane insert below the heel for superior absorption on long summit pushes. TPU inserts on the toe and heel are designed for a snug, exact boot/crampon interface. To enhance dynamic climbing performance, rear rands around the heel area, not unlike what you’d find on a rock shoe, securely lock the heel in place. Continue reading...
Posted in Beta
Also tagged SCARPA Phantom 6000
Being sensitive doesn’t always mean you’re weak. It can make you aware. It brings certain factors to your attention so that you alter your position, if ever so slightly. It can turn a potentially ugly situation into an opportunity to thrive. SCARPA sees this value, and has taken that mindset into redesigning the Phantom Guide, which has made several advancements that turn “sensitivity” into information the climber can use. Continue reading...
Posted in Beta
Also tagged Phantom Guide
Raphael Slawinski doesn’t take his students climbing. He’s happier teaching them the first law of thermodynamics or quantum mechanics in his Calgary classroom. If they’re having a hard time in class, chances are they might have a harder time keeping up with their professor in the hills. The Polish-born physicist also happens to be a world-class alpinist, though he’d still call himself a weekend warrior. We were able to get a moment of his time before the semester starts to ask a few questions about maintaining a career in science, while tempting the laws of physics in his spare time.
Even though your father was a climber in Poland, you didn’t take in on until your family moved to Canada when you were a teenager. How come? It wasn’t until we moved to Calgary that I was living close to the mountains. Before that we lived in places like Warsaw and Paris, not exactly climbing destinations. But even so I did not take to climbing right away. Ironically it was moving away to Chicago to go to graduate school that made me realize how important mountains and climbing had become to me.
Your mother is also a physicist and your father is a geologist. Has science always been a passion for you? Why? I suppose having both parents be scientists made me aware from early on that science wasn’t just something you took at school and then promptly forgot, but that it was something you could do your whole life. I think my fascination with science started with astronomy. Not so much looking through a telescope, but thinking about the incredible things out there, the vastness of space just beyond Earth’s atmosphere. Continue reading...