To many new climbers, alpine and trad climbing are the dark arts of the vertical world. Everything about route finding and placing one’s own gear seems intimidating. Hell, even putting together your first rack can be tricky. But SCARPA athlete Shingo Ohkawa is here to help…with the gear part anyway. He specializes in new routing, especially if there’s unusual, creative, or as some might call, slightly odd terrain to sort out. Here’s his suggestion for dialing in your first trad setup.
Shingo Ohkawa and Oli take in the view after summiting Helen’s Tower 1 in the Wind River Range. Continue reading...
Good friends, classic problems, and a relative lack of real-world responsibility: Bouldering trips are hard to beat. When several members of our Southeast grassroots team, Michael Rosato (@mikerosay), Al Smith, Keith Share (@sharekeith), Dan Horne, Billy Brown (@southernsteeze), Eric Eigner, and Kaitlyn Honnold (@khonnold), got together in Red Rock, Nevada, over New Year’s 2016, they worked about every problem they could get their hands on and put together a pretty sweet little edit of their trip. We asked the crew a few questions about their experience in one of America’s premiere climbing destinations. Here’s what they had to say.
The first time a climber pushes off the ground and ascends into the vertical can be a life-changing experience. Instincts fire, movements refine, and the climber experiences a feeling that’s both unsettling and completely natural. It’s addicting. This feeling has drawn thousands to climbing in recent years and helped build the critical mass needed to support countless state-of-the-art gyms around the country. With this explosion of growth SCARPA recognized that it needed a shoe that would appeal to the masses of new climbers exploring the gym and the rock for the first time. So SCARPA’s legendary rock-shoe designer Heinz Mariacher went to work. The result is the new SCARPA Origin, an $89 (USD) rock shoe that’s edgy and supportive in all the right places, while offering an approachable and super comfy fit.
The New SCARPA Origin. ($89 USD)
SCARPA athlete Sam Elias bouldering on The Monkey Traverse (V4). Flagstaff Mountain, Colorado.
Need a shoe that will find every nuanced hold on steep rock? Then check out the new, award-winning SCARPA Furia. By trading the bulky midsole for a responsive Power Connection Band (a tensioned rubber strip under the foot), legendary SCARPA rock-shoe designer Heinz Mariacher has achieved a new paradigm of sensitivity, softness, performance, and comfort in the Furia. The Furia’s PCB rand helps activate the strength in your entire foot for dynamic movement, insane grip, and delicate touch. It’s so good, Climbing Magazine gave it the coveted Editor’s Choice award. Sport or bouldering, indoors or out, the Furia is the perfect shoe for your next project. Continue reading...
Our approach to climbing is simple. Enter the Crux and Vapor V, a rock climber’s conquering combo. Talented in their own realms, the approach shoe and all-around climber are an ideal pair, whether hiking into the crag or setting bigger sights on multi-pitch mountain climbs that include route finding, scrambling, belayed climbs and long slogs back to the car. Together they are the archetypal footwear package that provides climbers the maximum sensitivity, comfort and performance for the myriad scenarios played out in the rocky hills.
David Allfrey climbing in his Vapor Vs on Free Rider (5.12b) in Yosemite Valley. Photo credit: Austin Siadak Continue reading...
The Vapor V’s power starts under the front of the shoe with Bi-tension Active Rands that direct power to key parts of the shoe to offer higher performance paired with better comfort than a traditional slingshot rand.
On the toe box, the Vapor V uses synthetic microsuede, which stretches without stretching out. Underfoot, a Vibram XS Edge sole balances superb grip with durability.
At home in a variety of more technical climbing situations, the Vapor V embodies SCARPA and Climbing Line Manager Heinz Mariacher’s philosophy of using active-tensioned rands to consistently improve performance while also making rock shoes more comfortable.
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Rifle has always held a reputation as the place in Colorado for hard sport climbing. With clinics, demos, and countless routes it’s no surprise the Rifle Climbing Festival hosted by apparel brand, prAna, drew over 300 moderate, advanced, and elite level climbers.
Battling major temperature swings – from the low 40’s at night to 100 degrees mid-day – attendees warmed up on 5.11 climbs, switching to 5.12 and 5.13s for the rest of the day.
SCARPA’s demo selection of trailrun, approach, and climb shoes went quickly as everyone awoke with the sun, eager to hit the crags. SCARPA climber, Sam Elias was there to explain the uses and benefits of each shoe to those interested. Continue reading...
An expert shoe for technical climbs, the Instinct VS was crafted with hard sport routes and bouldering in mind. The Bi-Tension active rand works from the heel to toes, literally pulling the toes back so they don’t jam and crush into the front of the shoe. The toe and heel piece are separate from one another allowing the arch of your foot greater ability to flex and work your toe independently of your heel and vice versa. Power straps on the upper help you maintain a snug fit and eliminate the need to re-lace your shoes leading to faster and easier adjusting. Another feature that separates the Instinct VS from other climbing shoes is its light rubber material that keeps your feet from cramping and offers added comfort and flexibility in the upper.
Put on your Lumberjack attire, tighten your harness, and get ready for the 8th annual Squamish Mountain Festival (SQUMF) July 17 through 21 in British Columbia. Less than an hour’s drive from Vancouver lies one of B.C.’s world-renown climbing destinations and for five days, the area known as Squamish will be filled with climbing experts, boulderers and all-around crag-cravers.
Hosted by Arc’teryx, SQUFM offers an opportunity to inspire, unite, and celebrate the sport of climbing with others who share the same passion for a life on the rocks. Several types of climbing and bouldering clinics put on by professional guides and pro athletes, gear demos, themed parties, and off-the-rocks activities draw crowds from all over B.C. and the northwestern US. Continue reading...
When dangling from a rock wall, hundreds of feet above the earth’s surface with nothing more than a harness, ropes, and some bolts, there’s nothing more vital than having full control over your next move. This is where the SCARPA Boostic comes into play. This professional rock shoe designed by Heinz Mariacher, provides toe power and precision in vertical and overhanging terrain. Intended to provide maximum edging and maneuverability, the Boostic features SCARPA’s Vibram XS Edge for ultimate grip and durability. Combined with a stretchable upper made with micro suede and leather, the Boostic is an easy-on / easy-off shoe that fits most feet types. Additionally, the SCARPA V-Tension active rand pulls tension from the forefoot backward to provides you with the power and accuracy needed to make your next move without experiencing pain.