Scarpa North America Blog

TR: Raphael Slawinski and Jashua Lavigne on Sir Douglas NW face

Dec. 2nd 2010

The beta according to DowClimbing.com:
“Mount Sir Douglas is one of the most aesthetic mountains in the heart of the southern Canadian Rockies. It is located on the continental divide, split evenly between British Columbia (BC) and Alberta. Its summit actually straddles three parks, Banff National Park, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park and Height of the Rockies Provincial Park. Belonging to the 11,000’+ group, it ranks high on technical objective lists along with Assiniboine and Joffre in the southern Canadian Rockies. However, Sir Douglas is not as popular due to significant rock fall hazard on the routes.

The Video (by Joshua Levigne)

Sir Douglas – NW Face Double Direct from alpinesummits on Vimeo.

The Route (by Raphael Slawinski)
From South Burstall Pass drop down into the Palliser drainage, contour around a spur of the long north ridge of Mt. Sir Douglas on its right (west) side, and gain the moraines below the twin glaciers on the north side of the mountain. Ascend the left (east) glacier to a snow ramp diagonaling up and left across the face. Climb the ramp to the north-east ridge. Follow the narrow and sometimes corniced ridge to the summit. 5-7 hours.

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