Scarpa North America Blog

From Yosemite to Baffin: Dave Allfrey’s First Ascent on the Great Cross Pillar

Jun. 29th 2015

Editor’s Note: On May 19th, SCARPA athlete Dave Allfrey and his partner Cheyne Lempe summited the Great Cross Pillar on Baffin Island via their new route Deconstructing Jenga (Grade VI 5.9+, A3+, 900m) after a 10-day push. We asked Dave to explain why he searches out new routes on remote big walls.

From the first time that I walked to the base of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley I knew that big wall climbing would captivate me. Laying my hands on the granite with the wall soaring more than half a mile overhead, I fell in love with the idea of passing day after day in the wild vertical world. To this day, the thought of days or weeks on the wall makes my heart race with excitement.

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The Other Side of Risk: Yosemite Search and Rescue

Jun. 24th 2015

Words and Photos By Cheyne Lempe

Do you ever wonder what happens to all those close calls after they dissolve and effortlessly and float away? Maybe you have heard stories and harrowing tales of near misses while sitting around a campfire. Though the percentage is low, the truth is this: once in a while those near misses and close calls become a life altering accident. Unfortunately, those freaky “once in a while” events happen more frequently than you would comfortably like to know about. During the past few years of working on the Yosemite Search and Rescue team, I’ve experienced what happens on the other side of risk.

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The Best Climbing Gear for Trad and Alpine Routes

Jun. 24th 2015

Last August, SCARPA athlete Shingo Ohkawa spent month in search of first descents on the classic vertical walls of Wyoming’s spectacular Wind River Range. While he and his partners horsepacked in to base camp, it was all human-powered effort from there. Long days on approach and even longer days in a harness and climbing shoes allowed Shingo to really abuse the best SCARPA has to offer for this style of climbing. While an unseasonably wet and cold August shut them out of many of his objectives, he still came back with some glowing reviews. These are the SCARPA shoes that got him too the wall and up it, including an FA on the West Face of Helen’s Tower 1.

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What I’ve Learned: Dan Beall Talks his Buttermilks Super Project “The Process” (V16)

Jun. 24th 2015

This winter marked the culmination of my longest project, originally The Grandpa Project, now “The Process” (V16) after a Daniel Woods FA, in the Buttermilks near Bishop, California. Though this season ended regrettably with the destruction of the crux hold rather than a send, I still learned a lot about working a project of this magnitude. Like most people, the bulk of my climbing is on things that I can do relatively quickly. Seven days is the most I’ve spent on a line that I’ve actually completed, yet I’ve been invested in The Grandpa Project for 5 years now. As I spent more and more time on this line, discovering, cleaning, and preparing the line itself, overcoming injury, hold breakage, and weather, I’ve realized that my motivations and approach needed to be much different than they would be for normal climbing.

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SCARPA First Friday Film Fest: June

Jun. 5th 2015

It’s the first Friday of the month which means we’re bringing you the perfect excuse to procrastinate in the office or kick back with a cold one at the end of the day: a fresh heap of climbing and skiing videos. This month’s batch of moving pictures takes you from Alaska to Northern Spain, where SCARPA’s crew of dedicated climbers and skiers continue to push what’s possible in the mountains. #NoPlaceTooFar

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Introducing the Award-Winning SCARPA Furia

May. 27th 2015
Sam Elias boulders with the SCARPA Furia.

SCARPA athlete Sam Elias bouldering on The Monkey Traverse (V4). Flagstaff Mountain, Colorado.

Need a shoe that will find every nuanced hold on steep rock? Then check out the new, award-winning SCARPA Furia. By trading the bulky midsole for a responsive Power Connection Band (a tensioned rubber strip under the foot), legendary SCARPA rock-shoe designer Heinz Mariacher has achieved a new paradigm of sensitivity, softness, performance, and comfort in the Furia. The Furia’s PCB rand helps activate the strength in your entire foot for dynamic movement, insane grip, and delicate touch. It’s so good, Climbing Magazine gave it the coveted Editor’s Choice award. Sport or bouldering, indoors or out, the Furia is the perfect shoe for your next project.

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How to Set Great Gym Routes with Joel Zerr

May. 21st 2015

Climbing participation has exploded due in part to the growth of climbing gyms. These indoor facilities provide both a controlled environment for new climbers to test the waters and a place for more seasoned climbers to train year round. Part of the attraction of gym climbing is variety. With quality route setting, a gym can offer a new experience with almost every visit. But good climbing gym route setting is a science not easily replicated according to SCARPA athlete and USAC Level IV sport and bouldering route setter Joel Zerr. Joel currently sets for The Spot in Boulder, Colorado. He’s also guest set for countless gyms and national competitions including USAC youth events and the UBC Pro Tour. Quality route setting, according to Joel, is critical to the enjoyment of indoor climbing and it can actually help a climber progress. Here are a few of his tips to get it right.

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Three Steps to Help Kickstart Your Spring Trail Running

May. 19th 2015

Spring is about transition: cold to warm, snow to dirt, and winter activities to summer activities. It’s a transition of muscle usage as well. Often fitness gains from winter activities can transfer well. But after several months of low mileage, it’s important to be smart about your first few trail running sessions. We asked to SCARPA Athlete Jeremy Duncan share his secrets that will help you pull your SCARPA trail runners back out of the closet and get back into the groove.

Trail running in the Roaring Fork Valley, Colorado.

Jeremy Duncan trains in the Roaring Fork Valley, Colorao.

1. Start Slow

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SCARPA’s Zen Pro and Moraine Mid Offer Performance with a Purpose

May. 19th 2015

On trail and off, light hiking boots have to contend with myriad circumstances: dust, scree, mud, rocks, roots, washed out switchbacks—the list goes on. Whether you’re covering ground on multi-day journeys on the Pacific Crest Trail, or slithering up an incipient single track to the base of a climb in the Wind Rivers of Wyoming, the right kind of light hiker is clutch. We like to think we’ve got you covered. Why? Because they do.

Backpacker at Ornak Peak in Tatra Mountains, Poland

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SCARPA Answers Your Top Five Product Questions

May. 15th 2015

We talked with our fantastic customer service team here at SCARPA North America about the most frequently asked questions they get from customers. Take a look below to see if some of their answers will help you figure out what approach shoe to buy, how to take care of your SCARPA boots, and how you can get some free stickers sent right to your door.

So what makes an approach shoe…an approach shoe?

Approach shoes are essentially the most comfortable rock shoes you will ever wear. Designed for scrambling, technical approaches, and low-grade climbing, they have especially sticky soles and rubber toe rands for overall better traction on rock. Different types of approach shoes are developed to meet a range of needs and conditions.

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